Toolbrunup Peak
Stirling Range National Park
Directions - Toolbrunup Peak is located within Stirling Range National Park, a one hour journey by car from the centre of Albany. From the centre of town, head north along Albany Highway, taking the Chester Pass Road exit at the large roundabout, and following this for 75km until you reach the turn-off for Toolbrunup Peak. Drive down the unsealed road (2WD accessible) until you reach the small car park at the end. The trail head is located on the western side of the car park.
The Hike - Often regarded as one of the hardest hikes in the Stirling Range, Toolbrunup Peak is a challenging but rewarding Class 5 hike all the way to the 1050m summit. A mix of forested slopes, exposed scree fields, narrow rocky sections, and epic views, there is plenty to enjoy about this trail, if type two fun is your kind of thing. The last time I was here in clear weather to climb Toolbrunup was before the fires in 2018 and 2019, which wiped out the Moingup Springs Campground.
Back in the Stirling Range to hike all the peaks as part of a whirlwind research trip for my latest guidebook, Toolbrunup Peak was one of the hikes I was most looking forward to doing, as it's a much different beast to the rest of the other day hikes located within this stunning national park. Today would be a full on day, with Toolbrunup Peak, Mount Hassell and Bluff Knoll on the itinerary, totaling 14km and over 1500m in elevation. Enjoying a breakfast wrap in my cabin at the Stirling Range Retreat, along with a juice and coffee, this would be fuel for the first climb of the day to the 1052m summit. Arriving at the car park just after 8:30am, there were already a couple of cars there, meaning I would be seeing people on my climb up. Getting my pack ready, I was ready for the climb ahead, with over 550 metres of ascending to go over the next 2.2 kilometres before I reached the summit. The start involves entering a dark and green forest at the foothills of the mountain, recovering well from the fires that devastated this area a few years ago.
Visiting around peak wildflower and orchid season, it didn't take long before I saw my first splash of colour in the undergrowth. Coral Vine, Boronia, Eutaxia (or possibly a Bossiaea) all had me stopping frequently, along with a Purple Pansy Orchid. I was enjoying the thick forest, sustained by the creek that runs off the slopes of Toolbrunup and carves a small valley to your right, becoming visible in places where the vegetation is less dense. This is relatively gentle walking compared to what is ahead, so I enjoyed the smaller gradients and even path while I could. While most of the trees still have their green jumpers on from the epicormic regrowth triggered by fire, there are occasional gaps in the canopy where you get glimpses of the main bulk of Toolbrunup Peak. It's an imposing sight but a good reminder of the challenge ahead. Climbing higher, the path becomes steeper, with more step ups, and soon you reach the first of many scree fields that litter the side of the mountain.
This is a brief dalliance with the rocky terrain that will become familiar a bit further on, with just a small section leading across the scree. The views looking up the mass of rocks is impressive, including a solitary tree in the middle of the mess that has stood the test of time against the flow of moving boulders. Heading back into the vegetation, there were more wildflowers waiting for me including the iconic bright orange of the Showy Dryandra. Hearing a familiar call in the trees on the other side of the creek, I reached an opening and looked for the Black Cockatoos that were the source of the noise. I always love seeing these birds and there were about half a dozen perched up in the canopy of one of the taller trees. The gradients were getting steeper now, and I knew it wasn't going to be long before I reached the quad burning ascent up the many boulder fields that make Toolbrunup such a special place to hike. After negotiating a tunnel of green vegetation, I was presented with the first of the rocky jumbles that would be home until I reached the final part of the climb.
This one was brief but provided the first of the amazing views looking back down the creek valley, and across to the east. Knowing the views would only get better, I continued on through another green tunnel and found myself at the base of the first of a few long scree fields. Aiding navigation through the mess of chonky boulders is a series of white poles, along with markers bolted onto the larger rocks. I absolutely love rock hopping, so was in my element as I connected up the markers, all while having a look for any cool insects or reptiles that have homes in the sheltered crevices of the boulder field. It's brutal work at times, hauling yourself up the mountain on uneven rocks that like to move and slide but this is the fun that comes with climbing Toolbrunup. Make sure you take the time to stop and appreciate the views behind you, it's also a good excuse to take a breather. Having been blessed with perfect weather for the hike, I was loving the blue skies and white fluffy clouds all around.
It didn't make the climbing less difficult, and after a while I thought to myself that the scree fields were much longer than I remembered them from last time. Negotiating a little chicane as you near the sheer face of the mountain, I thought this was right near the saddle section that contained the final scramble to the summit. Oh how I was wrong, as I followed the markers and saw another long section of boudlery goodness waiting for me. Having hiked a fair amount over the last couple of weeks, the legs were prepared but for non-regular hikers I can imagine this would be an unwelcome sight. Powering on, I soon reached the saddle, and in clear weather this is a magical spot. Looking to the east, you have the climb you've just completed, which looks like someone took a dump truck full of rocks and deposited them down the mountain. The real treat are the views to the west, which you only just get to see for the first time here. The view to the south of one of the smaller peaks attached to Toolbrunup was looking a treat thanks to the mass of purple flowers that were in bloom all around the various rocky crags of the hill. Reaching the saddle, the trail appears to lead you straight off the edge of the cliff.
To avoid falling to your death, look to your right and up, and you'll see more white markers pointing you up a steep path. This is the toughest section of the whole climb, with parts requiring you to pull yourself up, or get a good foothold to push your weight up. I remember it being a lot closer to the edge of the cliff but perhaps it has been re-routed, or more likely, my memory is not entirely accurate. After a short but steep climb, I was at the summit where I found another guy having a break with a notebook. Having a bit of a chat, he was up here writing some words down for his best mans speech in a few days time. There are plenty of different areas to explore around the summit, so I left him in peace and went off to photograph the amazing views from up here. Being smack bang in the middle of the Stirling Range, you get fantastic views looking in all directions. My next hike at Mount Hassell looked tiny in comparison, same with the purple blooms on the lower peak that I was staring up at not so long ago. I spent a good amount of time up here enjoying the various vistas, and photographing every angle. Eventually I decided it was time to head back down, enjoying the crab crawl technique in places, to get myself down the boulder field in the most efficient manner. What a day for it, and Toolbrunup was every bit as enjoyable as I remembered it to be.
Final Thoughts - Coming back after many years, especially after a major fire, I was interested to see how Toolbrunup was from my initial visit.
Getting perfect weather was a contributing factor, as the fickle nature of Stirling Range can play havoc with those wanting clear views from the summit, and suddenly finding the clear conditions they had at the start disappearing quickly.
This is a much more engaging climb than the more popular Bluff Knoll, with the scree fields requiring you to think about every step, compared to the endless stair case that Bluff Knoll has become. They are both great hikes with different characteristics, with Toolbrunup there for those looking for more of a challenge, and a bit of thrill.
If you're comfortable with a bit of rock scrambling and want something different from the other day hikes in the Stirling Range, Toolbrunup Peak is the hike for you.
Get out there and experience it!
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