Shadow Lake Circuit
Lake St Clair National Park
Directions - The Shadow Lake Circuit is located two and a half hours north west of Hobart in Lake St Clair National Park. Take the Brooker Highway north and follow the signs for New Norfolk. Cross the River Derwent at New Norfolk and then follow the Lyall Highway north west all the way to Derwent Bridge. Turn onto Lake St Clair Road and follow this all the way to the car park for the Lake St Clair Lodge. The walk trails all start from the same location a short distance west of the lodge.
The Hike - With our stay at Lake St Clair coinciding with a bit of a cold snap, some snow on the mountains was making for a great experience. After one day of it snowing at lower altitudes we woke up on the last full day we were there to normal conditions around the Lake St Clair Lodge. With an enjoyable group outing on the Larmairremener Tabelti after breakfast, my main focus for the afternoon was to tackle the 14km Shadow Lake Circuit that seemed like a good compromise given Mount Rufus was a little longer and possibly harder to navigate with the snowfall we'd received.
After our morning walk, Caris and I headed out to Derwent Bridge for a spot of lunch at the Hungry Wombat Café before heading back to Lake St Clair so I could prep my gear. Candy and Hal were off kayaking on the lake and along the River Derwent so Caris would get some time off to read her book and have a nap in the warm cabin. Filling up my water bottles and packing some warm gear, I said goodbye and headed off along the edge of the lake towards the start of all the day walks near the lodge. With partly cloudy conditions, this was the first time I'd seen the lodge with blue skies around and I enjoyed the different look, even if it wasn't as cosy as when it was covered in snow. Walking past the little information hut at the start of the Watersmeet Track, I decided to do the circuit in a clockwise direction. It doesn't matter what direction you do it in but I wanted to be on unfamiliar territory much earlier and was soon on the shared path with the Larmairremener Tabelti as it leaves the Watersmeet Track. Walking past Banksias and small Buttongrass Plains, this marks the start of a very long uphill section all the way to where you turn off for Mount Rufus.
I would have loved to have done that track but given how many photos I take on a typical hike, trying to average 4kmph over the remaining five hours of daylight would be a challenge and I didn't want to feel rushed. Walking past the sign for the Larmairremener Tabelti turnoff, from here until the crossing of the Hugel River would be all new for me and I was excited to see what was in store. You can read all about a walk in guide books or look on the interwebs for reviews but nothing really prepares you for being in the moment. Initially I was a little disappointed that I hadn't done this the previous day when the ground was covered in snow but the quality of the forest through here was very enjoyable. Passing the girthy trunks of the larger trees was fantastic and there were plenty of details for me to photograph including Coral Fungi, different varieties of berries, lichens and flowering Banksia. Not expecting it to be a warm hike, I found early on that I didn't need my jacket so put that in the bag not far from the first turnoff. As I climbed, it became apparent that not all the snow had melted and I was ascending into a winter wonderland as the altitude got higher and higher.
This made me a very happy hiker as it would be my last opportunity on this trip to hike in snow and it would be an amazing experience to have an extended walk in the snow without worrying about a spotty lens. Initially the snow was limited to small patches in the undergrowth and areas where it was very shady but the higher I climbed, the more frequent it became. During this transition period, the mixture of snow and mud made for some interesting walking as the ground was quite wet from the snow melt and at times I was walking through a flowing creek, much like my hike up Mount Sprent. This would end up being the story for most of the afternoon as I had to watch where I was stepping to avoid sinking my boots into shin deep water or a boggy patch of mud. The first of many cool finds in the snow was a large fungi that was about the size of a dinner plate bursting through the white powder. It was by far the biggest fungi I saw on the trip and looked comically large just sitting there in the snow. Continuing to ascend, I had a bit of a giggle as the snow on the track got thicker and it dawned on me that higher up I may be walking in much deeper snow, a prospect that excited me.
Enjoying the juxtaposition of classic Australian flora against the wintery feel of the snow, I had cleared the thicker forest and was now heading up towards a more sub alpine area. The undergrowth thinned out a little and the thinner trees now stood out a lot more. This also marked the emergence of the Snow Gum, a tree that I adored on my first visit to Mount Field National Park thanks to the vibrant colours of the trunk when the bark has peeled away. This would be my first time seeing a Snow Gum in snow and with the filtered light of a partly cloudy day illuminating the colouring, it was a joy to photograph them. I was expecting the open forest to continue up towards the high point of this walk but soon found myself under an enclosed canopy and one of the more magical places on the circuit. Coming across a little creek system, the combination of white ground, mossy logs, dark breaks in the white for flowing water and a golden tint to the lighting made this a pretty special spot. It reminded me of the Forest of Dean scenes in Deathly Hallows: Part One where Harry finds the sword of Gryffindor and the three main protagonists are reunited. I would be finding no magical objects here so just stood still for a while and soaked it all in.
Crossing the creek system via some small bridges, this next area would mark the heavier areas of snow and I would have to be on my toes to navigate my way along the intended path. For the most part it was easy, just follow the existing boot prints in the snow but as with any track, sometimes the most trodden path is the wrong one because people have to go out and back due to taking a wrong turn. I made this mistake and ended up following some track up the creek and into a pretty area that wasn't the correct one. As I realised my mistake and backtracked, I was surprised to see a couple following up behind me. They were heading on the same wrong route as me so I pointed them in what I thought was the right direction and they continued on. I hadn't expected to see anyone up here given the conditions and was in my own little world so it was a but of a shock. Now on the right track (look for the orange markers), the snow on the ground got thicker and it became a mission to land the right step that didn't involve getting your whole boot buried in either snow or water. Eventually I reached the open forest again and this was the start of some epic views looking across to Mount Rufus and eventually over to Mount Hugel.
With my zoom lens able to make out the snowy summit of Mount Rufus, I was hoping that this clear weather would last for the rest of the hike and I could finally get an appreciation for the mountains in the area that had so far been pretty well hidden by clouds. Trudging through the snow, I spotted my first Pandani, a smol version poking out from underneath the snow and I naturally took a few photos. Following the orange markers that are attached high on the snow posts through here, I eventually came to the track junction where the Mount Rufus Circuit leaves the Shadow Lake Circuit to head up to the summit and then re-join closer to Shadow Lake. With more time available I would have done this 5km addition but as I said earlier, I didn't want to rush through the hike. The couple that passed me earlier had stopped here and we had a bit of a chat about the fantastic day we were having and what hike we were both doing. I didn't notice before but they had large packs on and were planning on camping near the summit of Mount Rufus before heading back down the next day. Given the spectacular sunset I experienced later on, this would have been a pretty magical experience for them. I wished them good luck and watched them head off as I stayed to photograph the amazing scenes in front of me.
Heading back into the forest, there is a slight dip down into a small valley and this was home to the largest collection of Pandani on the whole circuit. I would see the odd one here and there but this grouping was pretty cool to see, especially given the size of some of them. Here I also came across my first and only Snow Berry, very fitting given the conditions and it was good fun photographing the white berry against the snow. After rising up a small hill that is the highest point on the circuit, this next section is a gradual downhill as you descend down towards the flatter areas containing the lakes. Back in the thicker forest, there are some sizeable trees through here and more of the colourful Snow Gums to admire. Crossing over some flooded areas and creek systems is made easier by boardwalk and wooden foot bridges and not having to think about your next step was a welcome relief. I stopped at one of the wider creeks to photograph the little rapids that were flowing, along with the pools of water that had filled with golden confetti thanks to the nearby Beech trees shedding their tiny leaves. This was another tranquil spot in the forest that felt like I was anywhere but reality.
Meandering through the forest as it twisted and turned along the landscape, I was enjoying every moment of this hike. Looking at my watch, it became apparent that my pace wasn't terribly great and I would have to make up some time somewhere. Trying not to worry about it too much, at least the Watersmeet Track to finish was one I had already done a few times over the course of the trip. Arriving at another open spot, this seemed like the edge of a swampy area but it was hard to tell thanks to the snow cover. It ended up being a Buttongrass plain with several small creeks flowing through it and that provided some open vistas for me to enjoy the sensational views looking across to the snow-capped mountains. With Mount Hugel the dominant peak in the distance, I enjoyed the misty peak that had an air of mystery surrounding it. While sunny conditions are great sometimes, I love when there is a slight shroud hanging around as it gives an impression of hidden wonder. Today was a good balance between being able to see the peaks and having some rolling cloud cover. With emergence of the Buttongrass plains I was kind of hoping to come across a wandering wombat but didn't want to get my hopes up too much. After putting my jacket back on due to the cold, I did end up seeing a little critter, albeit a much smaller caterpillar crawling in the snow.
I'm sure the poor thing was used to being snowed on so I left it alone and continued along the edge of the Buttongrass towards the forest. There is a small connecting section of Snow Gums that I had a bit of a navigation mishap on and was soon searching around for the orange markers. It was a fairly open section and I could see where I wanted to be so found the most efficient way to get back on track as I entered the Hugel River plains. Exiting the tree line, there was a great expanse to the west with snowy plains leading all the way to the base of Mount Hugel. In these conditions, this was a pretty awe-inspiring place to be standing thanks to the otherworldly quality of the scenes in front of me. I just stood there for quite a while, surveying the views and taking plenty of photos as the clouds swept over the distant mountains, occasionally revealing the twin summits of Mount Hugel and Mount Rufus. I'd been to some pretty special places already on this trip including the alpine tarns of Mount Field National Park and summit of Mount Sprent overlooking Lake Pedder but this was one of the best views so far. Breathing it all in and taking some mental pictures of this special spot, I continued on, trying to find the boardwalk sections over the Hugel River.
Not wanting to take a wrong step and find myself slipping on the edge of the boardwalk and into the cold waters of the river, I made sure to follow the existing boot prints as they moved across the plains. Leaving the openness of the plains, the track takes you back into the forest where I stood at the tree line and admired the views for one last time. Heading into the Snow Gums once again, the snow was thick here as I came the track junction where the Mount Rufus Circuit joins back up to the Shadow Lake Circuit. It would be a short hop, skip and jump before I was standing on the edge of Shadow Lake and what a fantastic little stretch this would end up being. A relatively large lake compared to most alpine tarns, this is the first of two similar sized lakes in the area with the other being Forgotten Lake. There is a track leading off towards Forgotten Lake but by this stage I couldn't spare the extra hour it would take to do the return journey. Instead I stood on the edge of Shadow Lake and was in awe of the views looking across towards the peak of Little Hugel. The picturesque combination of lake, forest and mountain here made for a very special scene and I spent a bit of time here enjoying the views.
Prying myself away from the shores of Shadow Lake, I still had 6km of hiking to go before I reached the end and I was dawdling quite a bit. Luckily this next section was on very flat ground but this presented its own challenges. Walking along the ridge line to the north of the Hugel River, the flat terrain meant that drainage was a bit of an issue and for the most part I was walking through flooded track or rock hopping over little creeks that crossed the area. While good fun in most places, it slowed me up quite a bit as some steps would require me just to dunk my foot into the cold water well past the top of my boots. Eventually my socks were wet enough that it didn't matter and I just concentrated on the easiest path through the snow, water and mud. The terrain was a mix of thin Snow Gums and thick undergrowth but it was still pretty against the increasingly bluer skies to the east. Just after Shadow Lake there are a series of much smaller lakes that you walk near including one that I believe is available as a camping area provided you are respectful of the sensitive area around it. I used this stretch to try and make up some time as after a while it did seem like the terrain would mostly be the same kind of scenery. I enjoyed the areas where it was flooded as the reflections in the water made for some interesting photos, especially if there was a nice Snow Gum on the other side of the puddles.
Eventually the track started to descend and this would be the last time I saw snow up close on the trip. This wasn't too bad as I was worried that the snow would make this post look somewhat monotonous when all the photos were put together. Depending on how you view the length of my posts you could argue that this is still true but I tried to balance things out with a mix of colours and scenes throughout (and congratulations if you're still reading this far in). With the return of the giant trees as the track descends down towards the Hugel River crossing, for some reason I thought that this would be a short section, especially once I could see the rushing waters of the river below. In reality this bit lasts for a decent distance and this is no bad thing with the return of the lush forest and all the niceness that it entails. I was enjoying finding mushrooms again with a lot of different varieties poking out from the moist crevices of the forest. The moss and lichen growing on the trees provided another fun element to the photos and I was back in the fairy forests that Tasmania is so well known for. Reaching one last little descent through a section of thick trees and carpets of moss, I was finally on the same level as the now raging river. With the afternoon light now very weak and being deep in the forest, it was challenge holding the camera steady enough and I missed out on photographing a wallaby I crossed paths with.
The consolation prize was a bright red fungi that was attached to the side of a moss and lichen covered log close to the river and I photographed that instead. Reaching the wooden bridge over the Hugel River, this marked the point where I would re-join the Larmairremener Tabelti that I had completed earlier in the day. As I said in that post, it's a stunning part of the area and one I still slowed down to enjoy after having some fun watching the river from the bridge. Spotting another red fungi attached to a fallen log on the other side of the river, I made my way along the boardwalk to the Watersmeet Track. It was getting late in the day and my legs were slightly drained but as I walked along the Watersmeet Track back towards the lodge I was amazed by the light of the setting sun. I had only walked along here in the snow or under cloudy conditions so it was a nice change to see the canopy lit up by the light of golden hour. Much like the Platypus Bay walk we did the day before, I decided to take a detour and finish the loop by visiting Fergy's Paddock and walking along the edge of Lake St Clair. This turned out to be a fantastic decision as the lake was looking a treat in the glow of the pre sunset light.
Given I only had a short section left, I didn't worry about time and just meandered along the beach, admiring the eerie conditions as a light mist hovered over the flat surface of the lake. This was the clearest weather I had seen during the past three days here and what a difference it made. Looking all the way over to Pumphouse Point, glowing magnificently in the afternoon light, it was a peaceful way to finish the loop. As I rounded one of the bays and headed towards the lodge, there was a glorious rainbow giving me one last amazing thing to photograph. There were plenty of people about enjoying the clear conditions and it was nice to get the Overland Ferry sitting at the jetty with Pumphouse Point in the distance. Crossing the small stream and then heading up the stairs, I switched off my Garmin to complete the official walk. Given the cabin was a short walk along the edge of the lake, I headed back and enjoyed the nice lighting for a bit longer. I loved the glassy look of the water and it was certainly a magical finish to what had been a very impressive hike. After a well earned shower, we all headed out to the Derwent Bridge Wilderness Hotel for dinner and had one of the best curries I've ever had as we all swapped stories of our afternoon adventures.
Final Thoughts - Lake St Clair is famous for being the finishing point for the Overland Track but there is so much more to explore thanks to the network of walking tracks in the area.
The Shadow Lake Circuit was one that I'd penciled in as a must-do when planning for the trip with the addition of Mount Hugel as a bonus if the weather was right. Given the conditions and only having five hours to hike, I'm still very happy that I got to hike this one.
I'm sure not everyone will get snowy conditions like I did but the scenery is still stunning enough that it doesn't matter. Given how unpredictable Tassie weather is, you never know what time of year it will snow.
This will be one hike I won't be forgetting anytime soon and I'm sure I will be back to tackle the Overland Track and Mount Hugel in the future.
Get out there and experience it!
Be sure to tag any Shadow Lake Circuit photos on Instagram with #thelifeofpy and if you enjoyed this hike then feel free to share this page on Facebook with your friends.
If you've found this page or the website helpful and you want to show your support then consider making a small donation by visiting our Ko-fi page. You can give as little as a dollar with no sign-up required and everything will be put towards the website, creating new content and promoting the trail community.