Louisa River to Little Deadmans Bay
South Coast Track
The Hike - Day Three on the South Coast Track and this was the big one, literally. When you mention the SCT to hikers that know about the track, the discussion usually mentions the Ironbounds day. It's a simple day in concept, leave camp around sea level to hike 900m vertically before climbing back down to sea level. In reality this is a challenge for most people, especially with a fully loaded backpack but this is what you sign up for on the South Coast Track. Even though it's listed as around 12km in the John Chapman guidebook that we were referencing for this trip, I found his measurements to be on the short side. I cleaned up my GPS recording from my Garmin watch (not terribly accurate to start with) to remove all the times I had stopped and wandered about, and I still had this day at 15.4km.
Nevertheless, this day is not about distance travelled but metres climbed and descended. With our first couple of days taking longer than we had expected, and not knowing if the weather forecast had changed to become a warm day, we decided an early start was in order. Donovan is an early riser anyway, while Bronwyn and myself tend to dawdle quite a bit when it comes to getting up and packing. With all that considered, it was reasonable that we set off just after 7:30am, excited to be tackling the mighty Ironbound Range and what is arguably the most physical day of the week. Finally getting going, leaving camp would have been a nightmare if we hadn't already done a scouting mission the previous afternoon. I wasn't expecting the campsites on the SCT to be as large as they were, and to be honest, I thought we would only see a handful of people the whole trip. Given almost every campsite was full to the brim, it was nice that there was space for peak season, so hikers didn't have to setup in questionable areas.
For those playing along at home, follow the orange markers to the toilet block and then take a left to continue through the forest (sorry for the vagueness). Confident we were on the right path, filming began for the day and so the first section was a bit stop-start. This suited me just fine as I could photograph the greenery surrounding us and really savour this bit before the constant uphill of the Ironbounds arrived. Getting glimpses of the Louisa River every now and then, the real joy through here was the moss and dampness of the forest that had not been much of a feature over the first two days. The thicker vegetation that is supported by the Louisa River sadly doesn't last too long but it's long enough that you can really enjoy a slow meander through. The exit onto buttongrass plains leading to the base of the Ironbounds is really abrupt and it was exciting to see the challenge ahead after it being a distant presence for the first couple of days.
Stepping out onto the boardwalk, the cloudy morning provided ideal conditions for the climb, with the slopes still being visible but the harshness of the summer sun lessened. Taking many photos of the climb ahead, the first part was easy to trace thanks to the track being a string of spaghetti leading up the hill but after that I had trouble seeing where we would head. It would be obvious when you're up there, so for now I had fun enjoying the relatively flat walk through the plains. Spotting many wildflowers along the edge of the boardwalk, along with several Forked Sundew, this would be a day of many photos (I took over 1000 and edited up close to 300). It was hard not to take a lot of photos and one of the more impressive views of the day was looking back at where we had come from as the combination of the forests surrounding the Louisa River and the peak of Mount Louisa made for a pretty special scene. Reminding me of some photos I took from Lake Pedder on a previous Taswegin trip, this would be the best lighting of the whole day.
Eventually you do have to start ascending and this will involve lots of stairs. Thankfully they aren't uniform like the experience you'll get on Bluff Knoll so it doesn't feel like a death march for most of the time. This first section is one of the steepest, with gradients averaging about 25%, so keep that in mind if you're reading this before you head out there. I stopped to sunscreen up for the morning and had a bit of catching up to do, so was working harder than I should have given how many vertical metres we had to cover today. It didn't take long to catch up to Bronwyn and Donovan and it soon became clear that this wasn't going to be a quick hike. While it was decided that to a degree we were going to be doing the "hike your own hike" thing with regards to pace, we'd all eventually meet up every now and then for some of Donovan's filming. On the climbs it is different as pace varies wildly and catching up isn't as easy. Bronwyn was consistently behind both myself and Donovan, even taking into account stopping for photos and filming.
After a while we asked if everything was okay and it was confirmed that for reasons unknown, she wasn't feeling 100% and so today would be at Bonny pace for the most part. We had the time and it meant I had more than enough opportunities to stop and take all the photos I wanted. It was a bit of a slog taking ten steps and then stopping for a minute or two to wait but thankfully I had received training for this on the Stirling Ridge Walk back in April. During one of the times were we all had a break, I sat myself down on a step and just admired the stunning views looking back where we had hiked the previous day. With the vast buttongrass plains laid out before me, with rolling hills in the middle distance, it was relaxing to just sit there and feel my heartrate slow down. After a bit of hard toil and many large steps, the climb starts to ease into a more gentle gradient. At some points it almost feels flat and it was very reminiscent of Mount Sprent, just without the super steep start.
Looking ahead to the increasingly cloudier summit area (it's a false summit what you can see), there was another set of switchbacks after we had negotiated this bumpy section leading up the shallow ridge. It definitely felt a lot cooler than at the base, mainly thanks to the clouds and fog rolling in, and it started to dawn on us that perhaps the excellent views we had hoped for weren't going to happen. Soldiering on, we hiked up and over various hills and rocky outcrops, making a decision to have a longer break at the base of the next lot of visible switchbacks. Spotting a little area that had obviously been used as a seating spot by many hikers, we plonked ourselves down to enjoy some beverage and a snack. Spotting a Tasmanian Christmas Bell near our rest area was a cool find and pretty soon we were passed by Warrick and Elisha, the Kiwi Couple as we referred to them as. They kept going and tackled the set of switchbacks leading up the next steep section, so we watched them head off into the misty unknowns.
After a 45 minute break, we gathered up our packs and readied ourselves for the next push up the mountain. With Donovan and I being big Lord of the Rings fans, there were plenty of quotes flying about, confusing Bronwyn as she hadn't done her homework like we asked, and hadn't watched the greatest movie trilogy of all time. One quote I wanted to get on camera was when Samwise Gamgee says "let's be rid of it" while on Mount Doom. Not realising this was still quite early in the climb, I did my bit for the camera but it would take a long time for us to be "rid of it" on this day. The going was slow once again as we pushed up the switchbacks, so I meandered for a few minutes before stopping and taking photos of the everchanging scenery. With the clouds rolling in and out, various views kept appearing and disappearing, like the vista looking out to Louisa Bay and the sand bar reaching Louisa Island. Another scene I couldn't stop photographing was looking back down the slope and seeing the track snake its way from the start at Louisa River and wind up the hill.
This second steeper climb only averages about 20% for just under a kilometre but given you've been ascending since pretty much the start of the day, it feels about the same as the last one. When the clouds cleared enough, there were rocky spires in the distance and thankfully the track goes near a few of them. I was fascinated by the colour of the rock, having mostly seen the bright whites of the quartzite that makes up a lot of the track leading up the mountain. The pink and purple hue was really photogenic, especially when contrasted against the backlit mist rolling around the sides of the hill. With the temperature dropping off significantly compared to the previous two days, I believe this may have been the reason a Tasmanian Spotwing that I found didn't really seem to want to move. Usually dragonflies are super hard to photograph as they won't stay still but I was able to get right up to this one that was perched on a step. Following the track as it wound through the rocky turrets, I spotted an unusual flower that turned out to be a Tasmanian Starflower.
With Bronwyn not feeling right, I knew this would perk her up a bit as we both enjoy a bit of wildflower spotting, especially finding cool species like this one. This little patch of denser vegetation turned out to be a goldmine for flowers with a Swamp Honey-Myrtle, Slender Riceflower and some kind of Boronia I can't identify, all found within a few metres of each other. The climbing eventually levelled out and there was even some boardwalk to enjoy as we continued on through some of the best visibility we would experience on the latter part of the ascent. With views looking back to Louisa Bay and the never-ending hills to the north, this was a nice stretch to recover a little bit and enjoy the walking. Donovan and I were a bit ahead through here and we ran into the first of many groups heading the other way, and we enquired about what the descent would be like. Muddy and slow going was the answer so we pushed on and were soon staring at what we hoped was the top of the climb. Passing our first Pandani of the trip, I love seeing these alpine plants and it was a good reminder of how high we were.
The clouds were a lot thicker by now so any hopes of clear visibility at the summit were all but gone, so it was just a case of enjoying the conditions we had. Looking to the southern peaks of the Ironbound Range, the rolling mists were something to behold and with a bit of sun lighting up the slopes, it provided a bit of a wow moment for Donovan and I. Before you reach the highest point of the South Coast Track at 912m ASL, there is a small dip down along some boardwalk and then the final climb to the top. Rising up over the last quartzite step, it was a bit of an anticlimax to reach a flat section and see nothing but cloud around. We ran into a family at the summit and had a bit of a chat while we waited for a Bronwyn to arrive. After they left we ventured on towards some rocks to have a sit and the first thought was to break out the phones to see if we had reception for the first time in days. Although we were in the middle of the wilderness, being this high I still thought there would be reception but Donovan was the only one to get just enough to shoot off a message to his wife to say everything was okay and we weren't dead yet.
It was a little chilly sitting there at the top and the disappointment of not being able to speak with Caris, combined with no views was a little sad but there was nothing I could do about it so focused on enjoying the Western Flag Iris, Tasmanian Starflowers and New Zealand Cushion Plants. The highest point of the Ironbounds is along a ridge from this point and you climb a further 150m vertically to get there, where I'm sure there is reception. Not being able to see it meant it wasn't a side trip we were willing to do, plus having taken so much time to get here, we needed to think about reaching camp at a reasonable time. Bronwyn eventually arrived and we decided it was best not to take a break here given the exposed nature of the landscape, instead agreeing that the Ironbounds High Camp sounded much better. With all the serious climbing now over, it was a weird feeling to start descending properly, especially given it was mostly on boardwalk. On either side of a small mountain creek, there were some new wildflowers that we hadn't seen all day including some Scoparia, Mountain Rocket and our only stretch of Tasmanian Waratah for the whole trip.
Donovan was looking forward to filling up at the Ironbounds High Camp as the water there only has to travel a few hundred metres from its source, so is some of the cleanest and tastiest drinking water you'll get along the track. Having some brown river water in my bladder from the Louisa River (topped up with Staminade powder to improve the taste), I was good for the day but the idea of drinking pure alpine water was very tempting. The boardwalk soon ended and we reached some thicker vegetation that would lead down to where the Ironbounds High Camp was located. This would be more what the second half of the day would be like and it was a nice change to be protected from the elements and also experience something different. We crossed over a wooden bridge, with the alpine stream located underneath, and soon found a patch of ground to sit and enjoy lunch. Donovan went off to fill up his water bottles and so I fished out my jacket so I didn't get cold. Bronwyn was a bit spaced out at this point and just sort of laid down for a rest. I reminded her to have something to eat for energy and that seemed to perk her up a bit. The High Camp was a nice spot but I think we missed where the main tent sites were, as the bit where we were didn't seem suited for many people, or looked like it had been used for camping at all.
It was another 50 minute break to recharge and by the end we had clocked up seven hours on the track so far (making it roughly 2:30pm). With a long descent to go and being about halfway distance wise, it was going to be another late arrival into camp. Setting off once again, the thick vegetation gives way to an open section that is similar to most of the climb. A small patch of clear sky looking down the mountain provided views of Purrar Point and Lousy Bay but that was about as good as it got. The slopes to your right through here looked really impressive with some of the steepest drop-offs you'll see on the day thanks to the alpine streams carving their way down the mountain. It isn't long before you enter the damp, dark world of the Ironbounds descent and a complete opposite of the experience coming up it. Instead of exposed quartzite with a flurry of steps to help you climb easier, there is a stunning tunnel of greenery, mud, tree roots and mosses to keep you company. Initially it isn't so bad and although you have to watch your step, the descent is fairly easy going compared to what will come.
We soldiered on at our own pace, with myself and Donovan leading the charge and taking lots of photos/footage. I adore this kind of terrain, especially when the clouds are overhead and the lighting is a bit more even. In the darker places I had to be steady with the camera and not all photos turned out well but for the most part I think I was able to capture the magic of this side of the Ironbounds. I was in heaven as we descended down, sometimes easily and sometimes through mud, down big drops or over slippery tree roots. There is about 650m of descending to get through before you reach the Lower Camp and at times it can feel like it will never end. My Garmin watch has a rudimentary elevation figure on it and every time I checked it, the number slowly went down but never as much as I was expecting. I was having too much fun through here despite the complaints my knees were having and every little corner or dip revealed a new viewpoint that looked even more whimsical. After the first couple of days in mostly open and coastal terrain, this was a lovely change that I was relishing.
Donovan and I were within sight of each other for most of the descent and every time there was an interesting section, I would stop and ask if he wanted to do some filming. At the time of writing I haven't seen his series, so I hope my acting performance turned out to be acceptable. At one point we ended up catching up to the Kiwi Couple, which was a big surprise given how slow we'd been going and the long breaks we had taken. I think Elisha had existing knee issues so this descent would not have been fun as you pretty much have to accept your whole body weight into each step instead of walking in a normal rhythm. At that point we waited for a Bronwyn and she wasn't too far behind, so we kept slogging away through mud, drops and fallen branches. History became legend. Legend became myth. And for two and a half thousand years we were lost to that mountain. While not quite as dramatic as the loss of the great ring of power, the descent felt like it would take forever and Low Camp would never arrive. There was a great deal to enjoy as you can see from the photos but it was a relief when the forest opened up slightly and there was a visual representation of how high we were in the form of an island on the horizon in the distance.
We still had a way to go and on the lower slopes before the Low Camp, I was excited to see plenty of fungi growing in what is ideal conditions for them, even in the height of summer. Reaching a weird little incline, it felt strange to walk uphill again after close to two and a half hours of descending but just over the hill and down a bit was the small camp we had been looking forward to. This wasn't our final resting spot for the day but a place where we could stop for a break and know that the hard part of the day was over. We had a short break but given it was heading towards late afternoon, we continued on towards a creek crossing marked on the map. Having studied the John Chapman guidebook during the break, the rest of the day was meant to be a gentle descent to camp as we polished off the last 130m of elevation down to sea level. In reality though, it was an undulating finish to the day that had me cursing the elevation chart that was in the book (and apparently Strava confirmed the same). Before the undulation started, we reached the creek crossing and this was a fun place to stop and take photos. I tried for some long exposure shots but without a tripod and filters, it didn't produce great results.
The one good thing about studying the guidebook was that it told us to head downstream from the creek and not follow the obvious path leading upstream. The Kiwi Couple and another hiker ended up doing that and it took them a while to realise before doubling back. The section between the creek and where you start walking along the coastline was really pretty but my frustrations slightly soured the experience for a short time. The constant up and down seemed like we were heading more up than down but the scenery was a nice distraction. I stopped to change camera batteries and told the others to continue on without me, and at this point I took a deep breath and calmed my farm for the last section. Mostly walking on my own for the final kilometre and a half, it was nice for some alone time and after reaching the flat section near the coast, my pace skyrocketed. The difference in vegetation along the edge of the water is a stark difference with plenty of room for the forest to breath. It started sprinkling as we finished the day and I forgot to wipe my lens clean a few times, so some of the coastal photos weren't usable.
There are plenty of little gaps in the forest where you get glimpses of views looking down into rocky bays and inlets but by now, I just wanted to get into camp (where I knew there would be the same kind of views). After close to 11.5 hours of travel and arriving at 7pm, the campsite sign was a welcome sight. The campsite was once again super busy and being the last to arrive, we weren't too fussed about where we setup. There was one site with just enough room for us and so we started the process of setting up tents, sleeping gear and getting dinner sorted. After setting up my tent, priority one was getting water for the evening and this meant heading down to the rocky beach of Little Deadmans Bay to find the creek. While it was a grey and overcast evening, the beauty of this place still shines through and I spent a bit of time of the beach soaking my feet in the bay (not the creek) and watching the waves lap against the rocks in the distance. Because of our late arrival, we didn't end up finishing dinner until about 8:30-9pm and I was still wide awake by the time the sun was setting, so wandered down to the rocks below our tents and just sat there watching the changing light. It wasn't the best sunset but there were moments when the sun came out and the moody skies provided some lovely views. Sleep was well earned that night and with the toughest day over with, we could rest up knowing the next couple of days would be much easier.
Final Thoughts – That was by far the longest amount of time I've spend on a single day of hiking, not including the charity Oxfam hikes, and it was quite the adventure.
Going into the day, I knew it was going to be a tough one and it proved to be just that, although given our slower than expected pace, the most physical aspect of it was spending that much time upright and on my feet.
The longer than usual length of this post compared to others is a result of there being so much variety to this day, and me wanting to showcase it in the best way possible. While it wasn't ideal to get overcast conditions at the summit, you can't have it perfect all the time and as a whole, we were really lucky with the weather we got for the entire week, so I'm no fussed about this.
This will be a day I'll treasure for a while and it was nice to get through the toughest day of the trip in good nick.
Get out there and experience it!
Be sure to tag any South Coast Track photos on Instagram with #thelifeofpy and if you enjoyed this hike then feel free to share this page on Facebook with your friends.
If you've found this page or the website helpful and you want to show your support then consider making a small donation by visiting our Ko-fi page. You can give as little as a dollar with no sign-up required and everything will be put towards the website, creating new content and promoting the trail community.