Ronny Creek to Waterfall Valley
Overland Track
Directions - The Overland Track starts in the northern side of the national park at Ronny Creek, but walkers must have booked their hike online when the season opens (usually early July but check Tas Parks website for more details). Before heading down to Ronny Creek via the shuttle bus, check in at the Cradle Mountain Visitor Centre to complete a safety briefing, where you will also be presented with your Overland Track Pass.
The Hike - Well, I'm finally here. One of the most iconic multi-day walks in Australia, the Overland Track had been on my to-hike list ever since I started overnight hiking on the Bibbulmun Track, and it was finally going to happen to kick off my 2024. Having done the hiking equivalent of trying to purchase Taylor Swift tickets, I logged into the Tasmania Parks website on a chilly July morning and joined the thousands of other hoping to book a spot on their preferred date. As I was looking at doing it in peak season, I needed to be right at the front of the queue when the booking system opened, but unfortunately my starting position was in the 3000s.
After a stressful few hours where the system crashed several times, including at the payment stage, I had secured the last remaining slot on the 1st of January 2024, and would be joining 34 other hikers leaving Ronny Creek that day to start a week on the Overland Track. With airlines not exactly being the pinnacle of reliable service in recent years, I arrived a few days early in Tasmania, with the goal of exploring the Great Western Tiers if my flight didn't get canceled or delayed. Enjoying my time over three days in the area surrounding Deloraine, I did spend one of those days traveling to Cradle Mountain, just in case the weather was not great on this day you are reading about now. As it turned out, the weather would be almost perfect today, while that visit was cold and wet, but oh well, these things happen. Having explored Liffey Falls and Meander Falls as part of that section of the trip, among other hikes, I spent New Years Eve in some cheap accommodation in Launceston, buying supplies, eating pizza, and doing last minute preparation for the Overland.
After a bit of a restless night, I awoke early to pack everything up and double check I hadn't forgotten anything. I was the first one being picked up by Overland Track Transport, and it was an exciting and nervous time wandering out to meet the driver. With a long drive out to Cradle Mountain, along with picking up the other hikers, we wouldn't be starting the first day until after 10am. Traversing the city, it was a nice reminder of my 2019 visit here to do the Bay of Fires Lodge Walk with the Tasmanian Walking Company, and I would have loved to have stayed for longer. With a full bus, we left Launceston and made our way to the breakfast spot at Sheffield. Enjoying a coffee and picking up a treat for later in the day, we soon departed for the twisty drive up to the start point. Arriving at Cradle Mountain, we unloaded our heavy packs and set about checking in at the front desk, ready to be briefed by one of the rangers, and watch a safety video about getting hypothermia. There was a scale in the room and just for funsies we all weighed our bags, with one of the other hikers, Max, coming in at 35kg for his (more on this in future posts).
Eager to get going, I wandered down to the shuttle bus, where I joined the queue of tourists who were all probably wondering why some of us were carrying such large packs. The bus driver let everyone know, and was a fun solo cheer squad as we got off at Ronny Creek. I like that the Overland Track starts here, and not at Dove Lake, as it's a lot quieter, and you won't get the same number of tourists for the first section. Applying some sunscreen, and waiting for a small child to finish having a tantrum at the Overland Track signage so I could photograph it empty, I was finally ready to get going on this week long adventure I'd been waiting since July to start. The weather today was looking perfect, with light clouds and relatively warm conditions for alpine Tassie. The bus driver a few days prior had mentioned that Ronny Creek was wombat central, but unfortunately that was only in the afternoon, so as I headed along the boardwalk, no fluffy bowling balls appeared in the buttongrass plains.
With a leisurely 14 kilometres to hike today, and it being near the summer solstice, I could afford to take my time and really savour the experience. With day one regarded as the toughest day (if you just stick to the main track and don't do the mountainous side trips), the climb up to Kitchen Hut was going to be about the most difficult physical challenge with a full pack. I did have plans to tackle several of the side trips, so this would be more training for the legs ahead of some steeper climbs, albeit with only a day pack for those. Enjoying the buttongrass plains, and the stunning skies ahead, I crossed the bridge over Ronny Creek and started the three kilometre climb up to Marions Lookout. Leaving the wildflower filled meadows of buttongrass behind, I entered some light forest and started ascending the first of many staircases. The day was warming up and in the back of my head I kept reminding myself to slow down and enjoy the process. Reaching a shadier section of forest lining Crater Creek, the bright sunshine wasn't the best for photography but I made the best of it.
Reaching the small platform overlooking Crater Falls, this is a lovely place for a break, as it's shaded and you can feel the moist air rushing up from the creek. The falls were looking nice for the middle of summer, not that I've had an issue with dry waterfalls in Tassie during the warmer months. After a short rest, I continued up the hill, popping back out into exposed heath for another set of stairs leading up to Crater Lake. I was keeping pace with a father-daughter that I would see for most of the climb but would only see sparingly over the course of the week, as they kept to themselves for most of the journey. Reaching a flatter section, you all of a sudden are presented with a rustic old boat shed perched on the edge of Crater Lake. Looking charmingly weathered, it makes for a nice photo opportunity, with the hills around Crater Lake providing a nice backdrop (it's a glacial lake, not caused by a meteor impact as the name would suggest). Having seen Crater Lake from above a few days earlier, it was fun to get to see it up close.
It's a gentle climb from the edge of the lake to where the Overland Track joins the Wombat Pool Track, and they join hands to become one trail leading up to Marions Lookout. From here you get your first views of Lake Lilla and Dove Lake, icons of the Cradle Mountain side of the national park. Looking ahead, the path leads you up to the final push towards Marions Lookout. In the way is one of the steeper sections of the climb, with large steps and a chain in place to help you up. Often a bottleneck during the busy times, I was fortunate to have a clear run of it, and it was certainly a bit more difficult with 20kg on my back compared to a few days earlier. It's a fun little part of the experience and I can imagine some Overland hikers wondering what they have gotten themselves into at this point. At the top you get some fantastic views looking back down at Crater Lake, before another small ascent leads you to Marions Lookout, a popular place to visit if the Cradle Mountain summit hike isn't in your wheelhouse.
With much clearer weather than my previous visit, the views from Marions Lookout were outstanding. I could see the entirety of Cradle Mountain and Little Horn, plus the amazing vistas looking down at Dove Lake. With the bulk of the climbing over with (carrying my heavy pack at least), I could relax and enjoy another break before heading off to Kitchen Hut. Keeping two eyes on the Currawongs, as often as I could spare them, these clever birds prey on unsuspecting humans, happy to open zips on unattended bags and steal your precious snacks. They are so brazen that they come right up to you, eyeing you off and looking right into your soul. The Overland Track guidebook makes a point of telling you to carry carabiner clips or zip ties for when you leave your pack at trail junctions to visit side trips. Leaving Marions Lookout, I was soon on the alpine flats leading to Cradle Mountain, and this is where the scenery started to really step it up a notch.
With Cradle Mountain now the main feature, you can enjoy a leisurely walk through the open landscape. The patches of blue skies between the scattered clouds was alright with me after the poor weather on my last visit, and I got the iconic shot of Cradle Mountain with the small tarn in the foreground. Having not seen Barn Bluff on my last trip, it was a welcome feature on the horizon as I hiked along, and one that from here on will be a looming presence all the way into day three. Crossing over Plateau Creek, it starts to feel like you're in the Scottish Highlands (or hee-lends), with the muted colour palette and alpine grasslands all around. Seeming to circle around Cradle Mountain instead of making a beeline for it, you eventually reach the intersection with the Horse Track that leads back to Ronny Creek via Crater Peak. Taking a left turn, you are now heading directly towards Cradle Mountain, with Kitchen Hut getting closer and closer as you hike along.
Arriving at Kitchen Hut, it's a busy spot for people to have a rest, or wait for others in their party that have chosen to climb Cradle Mountain. For me it was a great spot to leave my heavy pack, instead taking up a drink bottle in my new Sea to Summit waterproof ultralight day pack, one I'd specifically bought for this trip. Before setting off, I decided to fuel up with the caramel slice I'd purchased at the bakery in Sheffield, and that pure sugary goodness really hit the spot. With an energy boost and ditching 20kg from my back, I was like a coiled spring as I bounded down the trail to head towards Cradle Mountain. With clearer views, I was excited to get up there and experience the awe of staring out over the Tasmanian Wilderness World Heritage Area, along with just admiring all the pretty scenery. After negotiating all the different tracks in this area, I was soon at the base of the mountain, looking up at the dolerite columns that are a feature of Cradle Mountain, and ready to start the ascent to the top.
Initially the track is similar to what you've been hiking on getting up to Marions Lookout, but once you reach the blue sign pointing you to the right, it becomes a different hike. Skipping between loose rocks and boulders, you follow a series of snow poles as they wind around the side of the mountain. This first section is gentle, with the gradients being easy but as you round the corner, things get a little trickier. Now staring up at the boulder field, it can be a little daunting at first, wondering how you are meant to get through the mess of jagged rocks. Keep following the poles as the gradient gets steeper and the effort required to pull yourself up to the next rock becomes harder. I'm not the best with heights but I absolutely love this type of thing, so was enjoying the climb a lot. As I reached the toughest part, where it does take a bit of strength to pull yourself up a steeper part, I found a girl who was not enjoying it as much as me. Having a little moment as she slowly tried to figure out how to get to where her partner was, I thought it best to leave them be, and took a break.
Enjoying the views I didn't get to see on my previous visit, it was fantastic to sit there and soak it all in while having a drink. It was great not having to carry the large pack, but what I was finding with the ultralight bag was that where it touches your back, all the sweat seems to culminate there. A small price to pay for having a waterproof and light way of carrying the essentials on these side trips. Getting through the tougher section and reaching the false summit, you are presented with more spectacular views looking down at the next part of the journey, a steep descent followed by another tricky climb. Taking my time, I remembered the best way down the rocky scramble and was soon staring up at the almost sheer rock face leading to the summit. Once you've eyed off your contact points, it's not so bad, but without my camera clip for my DSLR, it was a bit harder only having 1.5 hands to maneuver around with. Reaching the top, there is another small scramble to the flat section leading towards the summit.
Having climbed all the way from 870m ASL at Ronny Creek, you are now at 1544m ASL, the sixth highest point in Tasmania. The summit was busy, with day hikers and Overlanders enjoying the beautiful conditions up here, but there is enough space that you can find your own little spot. Not knowing if or when the clouds would blow over, I thought it best to take my photos first, just in case. Immediately I was drawn to the bulky monolith that is Barn Bluff, looking resplendent in the glimmers of sunlight breaking through the cloud cover. After exploring the summit and taking plenty of photos of the views I couldn't see last time, I found a quiet rock and enjoyed a bit of a break. It was only 2pm and although I was halfway through the day, the rest of the hike would literally be all downhill from here. Taking a pause here while doing some people watching, I called my partner and sent off some messages to friends before gathering my things and setting off back down the mountain.
The hike back down was far more enjoyable, with the tricky sections much easier to negotiate when you can use your arms to gently lower yourself down. Passing plenty of other hikers going the other way, most with the same look on their face, wonder with a touch of being slightly puffed, I was soon on the lower slopes and admiring the final views of Dove Lake that I would see. Arriving back at Kitchen Hut after spotting a large group of hikers that was the Tassie Walking Co expedition, I set about repacking everything into its place, not easy when this was day one and my pack was almost bursting at the seams with food and other consumables. Loaded up again, I set off down to journey into the unknown. Up until this point, everything had been familiar, but from the intersection where the Overland Track departs the Face Track, it was all new territory for me. It was nice a few days previously to look at that path and feel the excitement that I would soon be walking that way for a week of fun and adventure.
Rising up the smallest of hills, I was now heading around Cradle Mountain and towards the accommodation for the first night at Waterfall Valley Hut. The first few nights were all in new or upgraded huts, so getting to camp early to secure a spot in the bunks wasn't my main priority. I was happy to take each day as it came, slowing down to enjoy the excellent alpine scenery, and take a million photos (more like 9000 over the course of the week). The cloud cover by now had thickened up to provide a moody atmosphere to the hike but my bones didn't feel like it was going to rain today. Walking towards Barn Bluff, that was a side trip option for either today or tomorrow, more likely tomorrow given I'd already done the side trip to Cradle Mountain, and the climb up from Ronny Creek. Barn Bluff was an imposing presence in the distance, and provided a great feature to photograph, especially when there was an alpine tarn in the foreground, or clear views looking down to the valley below. Speaking of the valley, the wonderfully named Fury River Valley is another main feature as you walk along, and it makes for an imagination sparking scene wondering what is down there.
This side of Cradle Mountain definitely felt like wilderness, away from the crowds, and I had a wonderful feeling of anticipation for the week ahead. Trying to ground myself in the moment and not think too much about the coming days, I focused on trying to capture the amazing scenery around me. Having rounded the base of Cradle Mountain, there were stunning views looking back up to the summit, with the distinct dolerite columns rising up towards the sky. Although this section appears flat on the elevation chart, it's a lot of small ups and downs, so you never feel like the same scenery is going on for too long. Entering a section of forest, this was a pleasant surprise, and provided some variety to the photos, framing either Barn Bluff or the Fury River Valley with the trunks of the trees. Here I caught up to the Tasmanian Walking Co group, and as I made my way through the gaggle, it appeared to be almost entirely older Japanese hikers.
Trying to remember my rudimentary Japanese from high school, I bowed my head as I passed and let out of a gentle "arigato". We would end up criss-crossing this group quite a few times over the course of the week, as the Tassie Walking Co campsites or huts are generally pretty close to the public huts. Having done a couple of their tours before, there are benefits to them (like cooked meals and wine) but I was adamant my first Overland Track experience was to be in the public huts. Along this stretch the wildflowers were out in force, after a short break between Marions Lookout and Kitchen Hut. Mountain Rocket, Scoparia and my first Tasmanian Waratah of the hike were all seen along here, as I also caught sight of Max and Laura in the distance. Eventually catching up to them as the forest disappeared and the open heathland returned, they provided nice foreground features for my photos, before I stopped to refill my water bottles. I eventually caught them up at the alien spaceship posing as an emergency shelter, and it was quite a surreal sight.
Max and Laura took a break here, while I ventured onwards and headed on to the Barn Bluff intersection. This section of walking was some of my most enjoyable for the day, as the scenery all around was pretty awe-inspiring. Straight ahead you had the bulk of Barn Bluff rising up from the landscape, to the right you had the dramatic Fury River Valley, and to the left was an endless vista of open plains and distant mountains, many that I'd climb or get close to over the coming days. Add in the moody cloud cover, and this was hiking heaven for me. To have the privilege of being able to walk to a place like this, and experience scenery this beautiful, I count myself a lucky person to have the opportunity to do this. Catching my eye as I stared out into the vast horizon were a couple of hikers descending the ridge leading away from Barn Bluff. With the power of a zoom lens, and having spent the week with them, I now recognise them as David and Rose.
Not far behind were Alice and Obi, completing the family that would form part of a larger social group that I would be apart of over the course of the week. Reaching the Barn Bluff turn-off, I was still undecided if I was going to come back to do this side trip, but that would be a decision for later. Staring out over the open plains down below, the Hartnett Rivulet is in the valley to the left, a name that will pop up again on day four as you can visit one of the many side trips down to the waterfalls. Following the snow poles, boardwalk along this section was a welcome relief after the rocky and uneven trail before and after the forest. Being able to walk while admiring the views was a nice feeling, as the views continued to be quite spectacular. Eventually you reach thicker vegetation that marks the final descent towards Waterfall Valley Hut. Walking down winding staircases through dense pockets of plants, including plenty of Pandani, this was a nice change. Getting closer and closer to the valley floor, taller eucalyptus start to appear, and it's a nice finish to the day.
Seeing the sign for Waterfall Valley meant I was close, and soon I caught my first glimpse of the new hut that was built in 2020, just uphill from the old Waterfall Valley Hut from the early days of the Overland Track (that you can still stay in). Arriving in camp, there are a few buildings here, with the Warden and Ranger Hut the first one you pass on the right, with the main hikers cabin directly ahead. Split into two sections with an area for your gear in the middle, this hut replaces the old one, and is quite the upgrade. The sleeping areas are basic but functional, with rows of bunks that feel bright and airy thanks to the light coloured wood, and a lovely kitchen and dining area that has Barn Bluff perfectly framed in the angular windows. Decking overlooking Barn Bluff and the meadows below it provide a nice social space, along with ample room for people to stretch and do some basic yoga/pilates. It was already quite full when I arrived, as I was one of the last hikers to arrive for the day, and I selected my sleeping space in one of the emptier dorms.
All up in took me just over six hours to hike the 14km into camp, and it was good to change into my camp clothes and enjoy a warm soup while I did my best to socialise. Being somewhat of an introvert, solo hiking forces me to get out of my comfort zone, and I was lucky that the group we had for almost every night were really friendly and sociable. Being the first night, there were lots of feeling out questions, and I tried my best to remember names and faces. Throughout the afternoon I switched between socialising and exploring the area around camp, taking trips down to the old hut to try and find a wombat. I managed to spot a few over the course of the evening, along with wallabies, and thanks to Jay, an Eastern Quoll that was hanging around the water tank. Several people decided to take the plunge into the small pool near the old hut (see the sixth pic in the below gallery), but I didn't brave the cold temperatures. The rest of the evening was spent enjoying dinner and sitting out on the deck getting to know everyone. As the sun doesn't set until 9pm, there was plenty of opportunity each evening to talk, share stories, or just listen in to other peoples conversations. What a first day!!!
Final Thoughts – After almost a decade of hiking being a main part of my life, I was finally on the Overland Track. I'd heard stories, seen blog posts and recorded podcasts about it, but now it was my turn to experience it for myself.
Although I knew what half of the day would be like, it was still a special experience, and made all the better by the stunning weather and scenery you get on this first day.
This completely lived up to all expectations I had about it, and I remember thinking while I was out there, if this was the only good day of weather, then I would still be a very happy boi with what I'd seen.
As you'll see over the course of the journey, I would get to see a lot more, but the Overland Track, and this first day was a combination of great scenery, challenging hiking and outstanding facilities.
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