Lake Windermere to New Pelion
Overland Track
The Hike - Two days down on the Overland Track and if you've read my previous two posts, you'll get the impression I was really enjoying myself. With a much better sleep on night two, I was up an hour or so after sunrise (which is about 4:30am at this time of year), to have a wander around the campsite. Heading back to bed for another snozzle, there was plenty of time to rest this morning before getting up and joining everyone else for breakfast. Eventually extracting myself from the sleeping bag, I grabbed my breakfast and found an empty seat among the busy kitchen.
Today would see everyone hike just under 16km along the main track to New Pelion Hut, with the side trips for the day being a short detour to the Forth Valley Lookout, a slightly longer one to Old Pelion Hut, and a summit climb up to Mount Oakleigh once you reach New Pelion Hut. The day I've mapped out here includes the Forth Valley Lookout and Mount Oakleigh side trips, so if you're not planning the Mount Oakleigh summit, don't be worried about those elevation numbers (about half of the elevation for the day is that 7.5km section). With a couple of days with the same group, everyone was getting more familiar, and the conversations were less forced as the comfort levels increased. Sitting down in the bright and airy kitchen area, the views looking out the window perfectly frame Lake Windermere, with Barn Bluff looming in the distance.
After breakfast it was my least favourite part of multiday hiking, packing up my gear and playing the game of Tetris to get it all in my pack. Having a dry and clean area to do this makes it much better, and with less food to pack after a couple of days, it was getting easier. Even though this was one of the longer days in terms of the distance between the huts, there was no rush to get going thanks to the abundance of daylight in the Tasmanian summer. Having said that, watching Mountain Forecast in the lead-up to this trip, day three was consistently the day where the bad weather was going to hit. When I last checked on the top of Barn Bluff, an afternoon shower was predicted, so it would be nice to get into camp before any rain arrived. Faffing about the hut, doing a bit of stretching and talking to others as they left, I was eventually sunscreened up and ready to depart around 8:30am.
For the first time on the trip, I was leaving around the same time as everyone else, and going in the right direction, an unusual feeling. The Lake Windermere campsite extends up the hill where all the tent sites are located, and I hadn't explored this area the previous day. It's a pretty spot, with the elevated position providing nice views over the landscape but still sheltered enough thanks to the pockets of vegetation surrounding the tent platforms. Rising up the hill and around the corner, you exit the thicker vegetation and are presented with some amazing views overlooking the buttongrass plains extending down to Lake Windermere, with Barn Bluff looking stoic in the distance. Barn Bluff is a constant companion for this first part of the day, along with the occasional glimpse of Cradle Mountain, providing a nice reminder of the first two days on the track.
The open plains soon give way to pockets of wildflower filled vegetation, with Alpine Tea-Tree and Scoparia seen through here in the summertime. Switching between plains and stunted forest, this sets the tone for the first part of the day, and when you reach the grassland sections, you start to see landmarks that will be more familiar by the end of the day, with the rocky spires of Mount Oakleigh being the obvious one. I caught up to the family from Northern NSW as I reached another section of shady forest, and overtook the dad and the two younger boys as the track starts to climb a little. Exiting the mossy forest, you climb up to Pine Forest Moor, with a Three Capes-esque carving in the boardwalk to alert you of this. This starts one of the most magical parts of the day, with stunning views looking back to Barn Bluff, and a real feeling of being out on an open plateau, surrounded by rugged mountains.
Although there was cloud around, it was much clearer for the most part, compared with the previous day. The photos were looking a treat as a result, and it was just fun to meander through this section and be in awe of the beauty on display. As you reach the main part of the moor, be sure to look back at the trio of Barn Bluff, Cradle Mountain and Mount Emmett. Looking ahead, Mount Pelion West is the main feature in the distance, Tasmania's fourth highest peak, an imposing side trip off the Overland that isn't mentioned in the guidebook for good reason due to the risk. I didn't notice the track junction for this one, and that is deliberate, as apparently it's a lot more difficult than Cradle Mountain or Mount Ossa. For now it was a pretty sight on the horizon, and one I was enjoying photographing. Savouring this section as much as I could, the track switches between boardwalk and the first real patches of mud I had come across.
Electing to go straight through them, as is the etiquette for Taswegin hiking, they were no more than ankle deep, a stark contrast to some of the mud I experienced on the South Coast Track a year earlier. Catching up to Sarah and Christie, two friends that were doing the Overland with their daughters, it was nice to have some people in my shots, along with someone to talk to. Walking past several alpine tarns, the still conditions and sunny skies combined to produce some lovely photos, with my favourite being the reflection of Mount Pelion West in the water. Reaching the Forth Valley Lookout junction, the side trip is a brief one, taking you only 50 metres off the main track for some spectacular views. Dropping my pack, I was soon on the edge of the cliffs staring out over the valley where the River Forth carves its way through. A feature of the day further along, unfortunately the lighting was a bit harsh and the photos were only okay.
After a brief stop at the lookout, I returned back to the junction and had a little rest there while chatting with everyone. This marks the quarter distance mark for the day, and having already walked through a variety of landscapes, I was keen to see what the rest of the day had in store. From the junction you can see the track disappearing into the forest ahead, so I swung my pack back on and headed off towards it. Thankfully, as I entered the forest the lighting changed, and some cloud cover blew over to provide some excellent lighting for the next section. With a rocky path to follow, it was a case of watching every step and then looking up to both spot the next orange marker, and soak in the gnarly forest, full of twisted trunks and mossy delights. Rising to the highest point of the walk to New Pelion Hut, it was almost all downhill from here to the crossing of the Forth River.
Ahead was an area called Frog Flats that sounded delightful, and the pictures in the guidebook made it look like a place I would thoroughly enjoy but for now I was focused on being in the moment. Passing a series of large, moss covered boulders that looked a bit like fuzzy dice, this was an unexpected find in the forest. Starting to descend, I spotted an always welcome Tasmanian Waratah, along with a River Rose, and a series of Pandani lining the track. Popping out of the forest, curiousity got the best of me and I followed a side trail that I quickly realised was for the Tasmanian Walking Co hikers. Back on the main track, the expansive views ahead were typical Overland Track goodness with distant mountains and sweeping valleys. Mount Pelion West was visible again, and these are the best view you'll get of it before you disappear into the forest once again.
Looking across the valley, I could see a structure in the distance that didn't look remotely fancy enough to be a private lodge for the Tasmanian Walking Co hikers. Given this area has a history of mining and grazing, I am guessing it is an old hut, something others thought too when it came up in discussion that evening at New Pelion. While not surprising given it's Australia and we like to mine everything we can, I am still baffled that this area that was designated early on as being a special wilderness region, was still open for mining exploration, and that it was feasible to transport anything that was found out of this terrain for a profit. Back to the walk, you continue following the sturdy boardwalk as you scoot around pine forest, and traverse through the buttongrass plains, with Mount Pelion West looking impressive now you're getting much closer.
Heading down a little valley, I don't even know what this creek is called, as it isn't featured on any open source maps I can find, but it's significant enough that there is a wooden bridge to cross it. Rising up from the valley after crossing the bridge, you get your last section of buttongrass for a while, before entering a dry sclerophyll forest that is an introduction for things to come. Soon you'll come across another small creek with a bridge and little rest platform that I believe is Pelion Creek. Here I caught up to Jay, Laura and Richie, three siblings hiking the Overland Track together, with a special fourth guest that I'll talk more about when I get to Mount Ossa on the next post. Having a rest in the cool surrounds of the creek, we were all fascinated by the Myrtle Beech growing along the creek, that I incorrectly told everyone was the deciduous Fagus that Tasmania is famous for.
After enjoying a drink and filling up one of my bottles, I said goodbye to the siblings and continued on my merry way. Ahead was a gentle descent down to the Forth River crossing, and the area around it known as Frog Flats. As I said before, the photos I'd seen of this stretch made it look like my kind of place, with moss covered trunks, overhanging vegetation and a real cosy feeling to it. The rainforest after leaving Pelion Creek was a nice appetiser for what was to come, with the rocky path looking more like a creek itself thanks to the shiny mud and standing water. Enjoying the slow walk, I was in no hurry to get to New Pelion, although I was soon passed by Jay, who wanted to get there so he had enough time to climb Mount Oakleigh. Noticing something out of the corner of my eye, a Jack Jumper Ant was dragging a small spider along some sword grass.
I'd heard stories about what it was like to be bitten by one of these things, so was happy it was already occupied. Continuing to descend, I passed Gavin and Bree, a father-daughter from Queensland that were having a break at one of the small creeks that flows off Mount Pelion West and down into the valley. I left them to it as I kept walking along, admiring the amazing scenery ahead. There's something about a trail leading into the distance, with the forest forming a tunnel around it, drawing your gaze to a single point in the distance. It's one of my favourite types of scenes to photograph, and this was a never-ending delight full of roots, moss and fungi. It reminded me of the scene from Fellowship of the Ring where the four hobbits first come across the wraith rider, although my time was much less stressful than theirs.
The scenery continued to be excellent and the easy downhill walking was a different pace to the first two days, where I had scaled a mountain on each day. At this point, Mount Oakleigh wasn't even a thought on my mind but one I'd consider after arriving at camp. This was turning out to be everything I had expected walking through here, and I was grateful that the cloud cover had returned to provide some even lighting. Passing lots of fun stuff to photograph, like Mountain Pinkberry, Ruby Bonnet fungi, a Slender Rice Flower and Hard Water Ferns, I wasn't setting any Strava segments on fire. As you descend further, the scenery gets even better, with ancient trees covered in moss providing some awe-inspiring sights. Rounding a corner, I knew it wasn't long until the Forth River crossing, but before then you get a surprise section of buttongrass plains, with views of Mount Pelion East in the distance.
This is only momentary, as you re-enter the forest and finish the final descent towards the bridge crossing the Forth River. I'm not sure why but in my head I had imagined the Forth River to be a wide, rocky river with raging rapids and a bit of a steep valley. Maybe because everything else up to this point had been a creek, so I was expecting something grander for something with the river moniker. What you get is a rustic wooden bridge over a shallow river that didn't quite meet the lofty and unfair expectations I had set. This was my predetermined lunch spot for the day, and that was the thinking of Alice, David, Obi and Rose, a lovely family from Melbourne. I asked if I could join them on the logs next to the river, and tucked into a protein bar whilst swatting away the army of mosquitoes that were hanging about.
Photographing the river bank in-between chatting about the track, and life in general, this was a pleasant spot for lunch. Obi kindly offered to fill everyone's water bottles while he was already in an awkward position by the river, and soon enough it was time to get moving again. As is always the case with river crossings, there is a hill on the other side you must climb, but thankfully this was a relatively gentle one for the Overland, averaging about 6% over the next couple of kilometres. I stayed behind for a little bit, so everyone was ahead of me, and I had a clear track to photograph. Now on the eastern side of the river, the landscape was initially much different, with a lot more room on the side of the track, and open sections of forest providing some limited views of distant mountains. With more sunlight streaming through, the skinky skinks were out and about on the boardwalk, not too shy to pose for photos.
The openness disappears eventually as you enter a slightly thicker section of forest, and a return to the type of Tasmanian scenery I revel in. Spotting fungi nestled among the decaying logs, or popping out of the soft mosses, I love that you still get that in the middle of summer. Meandering along up the hill, it was only about five kilometres or so to New Pelion, but it felt like I was just around the corner. This was not the case, as the hill kept going and going, but with lovely forest all around, and little things to discover and photograph, I was trying not to think too far ahead. For the most part, the track was on boardwalk, and I could see how this section might get a little boggy, even in the middle of summer. There was some debate within our group over the ease of walking provided by the boardwalk, and the general consensus was that while it may have simplified the experience, the environmental benefits were worth it.
Reaching the top of the climb, the wetter style of forest starts to fade and the dry sclerophyll makes an appearance again. It's hard not to admire the variety you get along each day of the Overland Track, and if you don't count the last stretch from Echo Point to Cynthia Bay, each section provides plenty of diversity throughout the days walking. One minute you could be walking through beech forest, then round a small corner and you are hit with light coloured trunks and swathes of sword grass. With the track now flattening out, it was going to be a gentle cruise into New Pelion. There was plenty to see through this section, with Spreading Guinea Flower, more Mountain Pinkberry, and an interesting looking fungi called Beech Orange. It only grows on the Myrtle Beech trees, and form a globe shape until the surface starts to burst and it looks like an orange golf ball.
It was always fun to see and photograph these bright orbs, and the next few days contained plenty of examples. Getting closer and closer to New Pelion, I thought that at any moment I would get to the Old Pelion Hut junction, and know camp wasn't too far away. The track seemed to continue on for a while through the dry sclerophyll forest but the abundance of large ferns and excellent lighting made this an enjoyable stretch. Over the course of the day I had spotted lots of fungi but the one I always have a chuckle at is the yellow blob that I'm not joking when I say is called Dog Vomit Slime Mold. A true case of something looking exactly as described. Reaching the edge of the forest, I finally got my first views of the Pelion Plains, and the iconic spires of Mount Oakleigh in the distance. This mean camp was not too far away, and I could revel in the final part of the days walking.
For the next kilometre, you walk along the edge of the forest, still under the canopy but with excellent views overlooking the Pelion Plains. I couldn't take my eyes off Mount Oakleigh, and stopped quite a lot to photograph the bulky mass at the end of the buttongrass extending out from the tree line. Reaching the Old Pelion Hut junction, I decided that I would head to camp and return later in the afternoon to check out this historic hut, given there were plenty of hours left in the day. Continuing along the boardwalk, I caught up to Sarah and Tyler, a Melbourne couple, as we reached the track junction leading into camp. Arriving at the tent platforms first, it seemed busier than I expected, and this was confirmed when I walked into the hut and found a lot of unfamiliar faces. The reason for this, is the Arm River Track feeds into New Pelion, and is a way for people to come in and hike sections of the Overland Track like the climb up to Mount Ossa, and not have to worry about the booking system.
New Pelion Hut is one of the older style huts, and walking through the communal kitchen area, it certainly felt a lot different to Waterfall Valley and Lake Windermere. The darker woods and lower ceiling provided a more cosy feel, but there is still plenty of space. I selected a spare bunk and setup my sleeping gear before wandering out to catch up with the other hikers in my group. Jay was on the deck all ready to go on his journey to Mount Oakleigh, with Obi deciding if he wanted to join him. It hadn't been in my plans to climb Mount Oakleigh but a small twist of my arm from Jay, and I was packing my day pack up with a water bottle and my PLB. With the afternoon rain having not yet arrived, we were hoping to make it up to the summit before it did. Everyone wished us well as we departed on the Arm River Track leading to the imposing hulk of Mount Oakleigh, visible across the plains as we ventured along the boardwalk.
The cloud cover had increased from the morning but it didn't look or feel like it was going to rain anytime soon. I was loving the mood scene ahead, and quickly realised that my regular pace that involved stopping a lot for photos wasn't going to match with Jay and Obi. Doing my best to stop when I could, it was made a bit easier by not having 18-19kg on my back. Reaching Douglas Creek, there is a small suspension bridge to help you get over, with a narrow metal plank meaning it was a one at a time affair. This was fine with me as I could get some photos. Douglas Creek flows west towards the Old Pelion Hut and is the drinking water for that hut, so it is advised you don't swim here. Just after the creek crossing, you reach the intersection of the Arm River Track and the Mount Oakleigh Track. We headed left and continued along more boardwalk until we reached the lower slopes of the climb.
Entering the temperate rainforest, this is some of the best forest of the entire day, so even if you don't plan on climbing Mount Oakleigh, it's worth walking to the base and checking out the moss covered giants that are in plentiful supply here. As we started to climb, the boys were keen on maintaining the same pace as we were doing on the flats. This meant every time I stopped for a photo, I had to walk double time to catch back up. With so much pretty scenery around, this happened a lot, and my heart rate was getting up there. Eventually we took a break at about the halfway mark, with a nice lookout over the Pelion Plains providing a nice reference for how far we'd climbed. There was plenty of talk all the way up, and it was nice to get to know Jay and Obi a bit more. Getting going again, the gradients continued to be 20% or above until we exited the thick vegetation and made a left turn to head towards the summit.
Now more exposed, we could feel the first drops of rain but pressed on. The last part of the climb has a bit of scrambling to get up some rocky areas but isn't as bad as Cradle Mountain or Barn Bluff. Even with the rocks getting slipperier, it was still manageable in hiking boots. Keen to get to the summit before the serious rain arrived, we kept going, following the track we thought was the right one, as there are multiple goat trails sometimes. Reaching a clumping of boulders on the edge of the cliff, we were on the plateau of the mountain but not quite near the official summit, that is further west and to the north. Enjoying the epic views looking down at the Pelion Plains, across to Barn Bluff, and north to where the Forth River flows, we could see a thick band of rain approaching over Lake Ayr. It looked like it would get us, so we all decided this was as far as we would explore, and started the journey back down the mountain.
We managed to get back into the forest before it started to seriously bucket down, and being under the semi-protection of the canopy meant we probably didn't get as wet as we might have. Having lost two cameras to water damage already, including one just a few months ago, I was wary of losing another. Tucking it under my rain jacket, I kept it mostly dry and took it out occasionally to snap a photos of the now glistening rainforest. I think it was quite a feat to make it to the end of day three before getting rained on for the first time, and this would also be the last time it rained, apart from after we had finished at Lake St Clair. Reaching the base of the climb, the rain had eased to a gentle sprinkle, just as we exited the forest and made our way along the boardwalk back to New Pelion Hut. There was a little welcome back cheer from a few people, as they had been on the deck while it poured down for about 15 minutes, and wondered if we were alright.
With no more hiking left for the day, I changed out of my soggy clothes and hung them up on the railing in the hopes they would dry. The hut was really busy now, with plenty of hikers streaming in off the Arm River Track. Space on the deck was at a premium but after preparing myself a warm mushroom soup, I joined some of our group for some afternoon discussion. I was loving the social aspect of the hike a lot more now we had got to know each other further, and this was the day where it felt like the group dynamic really clicked into place. We sat on the deck, watching more hikers pour into the hut off the Arm River Track, including two dads and their sons that were covered in leeches after the rains. They weren't too impressed that there was no room in the hut rooms, and they had to tent on top of having to deal with the leech situation. Having being covered myself on the Devils Thumb hike near Port Douglas last July, I could empthaise with them. Surprisingly Christian and Eugene arrived back at the hut, having decided to also scale Mount Oakleigh before us but they had pushed on further to try and reach the proper summit, getting caught up in the rain after failing to get there.
While the rain had passed, there were still clouds moving through, including a wonderful moment where the clouds seems to flow up the side of Mount Oakleigh, engulfing the rocky spires. The sun finally made an appearance in the afternoon, and feeling a little crowded at the hut, I walked out to the helipad to take some photos and have a stretch. It's a great spot to sit down and really soak in the beauty of the wilderness around you, although the material feels like a cheese grater. Over the course of the afternoon, members of our group frequented the helipad, some to sit and read, others to stretch, and by the time sunset rolled around, most of us were there having chats and enjoying the changing light. I started dubbing these social times as the Helipad Social Club over the next few days, even if we weren't on the helipad. After a stunning day of hiking, we were treated to the most amazing sunset, with the light changing from blues to purples to pinks and oranges. With the Pelion Plains extending all the way to Mount Oakleigh, and Barn Bluff visible to the north-west, watching the sunset with this quality of scenery (and company) was the perfect way to end another epic day on the Overland Track.
Final Thoughts – What a day, what a day.
I thought it would be hard to top that first day on the Overland but with the variety, weather and scenery I saw today, this was right up there in my list of favourites sections.
Starting off with the Pine Forest Moor, and the beautiful vistas you got walking through the buttongrass plains, to the enchanting forest walking down towards Frog Flats and the Forth River, finishing with the stunning Pelion Plains and a summit of Mount Oakleigh, it's no surprise that this ended up being the day with the most photographs taken.
This day will be in the memory banks for quite a while.
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