Kia Ora to Bert Nichols
Overland Track
The Hike - Four days into the Overland Track, and it was everything I had hoped for and much more. Waking up during the night to try and do a spot of astrophotography didn't really work out but I was rewarded with a crystal clear morning, with just a slight chill to the air. Looking across to Cathedral Mountain, there was a dusting of cloud hanging around the summit that made me hopeful for an overcast day. With the majority of today's hike to Bert Nichols Hut being in the temperature rainforest and beech forest, the photos would look a lot better with the even lighting provided by cloud cover.
I would find out later what was in store for me, but for now there was a glorious post-sunrise show of streaming light coming through the clouds. Walking along the boardwalk to get a better view of Kia Ora Hut, I took one of my favourite photos of the entire trip, the cover photo you see above with the golden rays shining over Mount Massif and illuminating the hut in spectacular fashion. With a relatively short day compared to what I'd hiked over the past four days, plus no mountains to climb for the first time on the trip, there was no rush to get going. Meandering around the hut, everyone was in the same relaxed mood about getting ready. Enjoying a hearty breakfast of Radix Apple and Cinnamon, it tasted just like an apple pie. After many days together, the familiarity everyone had with each other was great, and it was fun learning about the lives everyone led back home and their background.
The talk this morning was around the easier nature of the day, which I'd started dubbing the waterfalls and rainforest day, given that's what you'd mostly be seeing. There are two side trips along the route today, visiting three separate waterfalls, and it's another opportunity to have a refreshing swim if you're game. Enjoying a stretch on the deck overlooking Cathedral Mountain, the warming sun was a nice feeling on the skin. It was eventually time to pack up and leave, and I was ready to depart at a leisurely 9:20am. Hiking alone during the day, I would meet up with various people as I passed them, or was passed along the track, and at the side quests. Taking some last photos of one of my favourite huts on the Overland, it was also the last recently renovated hut we would stay at. Passing the ranger hut, I crossed the bridge over Kia Ora Creek, and passed the side trail to Kia Ora Falls I had taken the previous afternoon.
The cloud had well and truly burnt off by now, and the day was shaping up to be another warm one. Looking back during one of the clearer sections, I could see Mount Pelion East rising up with the distinct little tower instantly recognisable. Starting off in the spindly dry sclerophyll forest provided something different to photograph, and one of my favourite shots was when I came across a straight section of trail, and the narrow trunks all closed in over the trail as it extended out into the distance. From Kia Ora Creek, the track rises gently for the first three kilometres to the historic Du Cane Hut, and given you're on the edge of the Mersey River Valley, there are some exposed sections with lovely views. For now the clouds had rejoined me overhead, and I was hoping they would hang around for the rest of the day.
In sections, the dry sclerophyll was replaced with patches of damper and darker forest, complete with weathered artifacts of the track like characterful planks and boardwalk. This was kind of the feel for the day, with most of the major track upgrades in terms of campsites and new boardwalk now behind us, replaced with a more rustic feel. This was no bad thing, as I love a moss covered section of track paraphernalia, as it's always more interesting to photograph. The twisted roots and old boardwalk section didn't last too long but it was a nice change. Returning to the dry sclerophyll forest, the straight lines and leaning trunks was a lovely replacement, along with some fun discoveries along the edge of the track like my first Dog Vomit Slime Mold, a large fungi and a River Rose. Popping out into another exposed section, Cathedral Mountain was starting to look a lot smaller when it appeared in the distance.
The variety for the day continued, with a return to the mossy forest that was starting to feel a bit more like the temperate rainforest section I was expecting for this day. While the overall gradient had been a steady climb, there were gentle ups and downs along the way providing something different. Passing a few ancient trees covered in moss, I was soon in the clearing that surrounds the old Du Cane Hut. One of many huts dating back a hundred years or more, they have been left along the Overland Track route to be admired, showcase the history, and provide emergency shelter if required. There was a bit of a crowd gathered outside the hut, with the Tasmanian Walking Co group taking a break, along with some of the young-uns we had caught up to the previous day. I had a look around the outside while I waited for the inside to be clear and it still looked in pretty good nick.
I was impressed with the wooden shingles on the roof, most likely all hand cut, and they all combined to provide a purposeful and character filled way of keeping the water out. With the interior now mostly clear, I ventured inside to have a look at what life would have been like for those staying here in times past. With the sunshine pouring in through the door and windows, it didn't look that bad, although once the light fades I imagine it would start to feel a bit more cramped. It was certainly one of the more inviting historic huts I've seen in Tassie, and I think it would be a good experience staying there. As with all these huts, idiots insist on graffitiing their names all over the place, as if people will marvel at this. There is a hut register if you want to sign your name there, otherwise just leave the place exactly as you found it.
I was dawdling a bit once I left the hut, as I was waiting for the bright sunshine to disappear behind the patchy small clouds I could see above. Occasionally it would for a few seconds but it became apparent that the middle of the day would be super sunny, and I was just going to have to accept that. Leaving Du Cane Hut and heading into the forest, I would have to adjust my approach in order to get photos that didn't look horribly washed out thanks to the harsh contrast between light and dark. Shooting tighter angles and making the most of periods of cloud cover, it was a case of making the most of it. This section looked good in real life but that doesn't really translate to what you see in the galleries. With a couple of kilometres between the Du Cane Hut and the first track junction leading down to the first side quest of the day, I slowed up and set about soaking in the lovely scenery.
With a mix of tangled roots, older style boardwalk and semi-soggy ground, you always have to watch where you're stepping. Being on the edge of the Mersey River Valley, there are a number of small streams and creeks flowing across or under the track as you hike along. Sometimes they were just a trickle over a mossy rock, other times they were a little more substantial. With this type of forest not typically a haven for wildflowers thanks to the denser canopy, I was on the lookout for fungi instead, being rewarded with several different varieties including a bright Strawberry Bracket being my favourite. There are plenty of stunning old trees through here, providing nice features to just stop and admire the time it would have taken for them to reach such girthy proportions. Reaching the track intersection, it was a relief to drop my pack and start heading down to two of the three waterfalls you can visit for the day.
Having seen photos of these falls before heading out, I was excited to see them in person. The track to get there is relatively steep compared to what you've hiked on today but the weaving nature of the path, along with some fun features like stone steps and wooden bridges, make it an engaging walk. Reaching another intersection, you have a choice on what waterfall you want to visit first, with myself choosing D'Alton Falls first (the left path). I bumped into Laura, Richie and Jay who were coming back from visiting the falls, and they seemed like they had enjoyed it. Following the little orange markers, you cross a moist rocky slab before reaching a spot where I had to spend some time trying to figure out where to go. It looks like the path goes straight on, most likely because people do the same thing I did and continue walking, but it actually wraps around to the right for the final section leading to the lookout (look for the chains).
Hearing the crashing of the falls over the cliff, I was soon standing on the other side from D'Alton Falls. Facing directly into the sun, the water was blindly bright, even with sunglasses on, and that also made the valley it flows into super dark. Even in the height of summer, there was a good flow of water, with the spray being blown across the valley providing a cool relief to the warm day. Changing the settings on my camera to increase the shutter speed in the hope of getting photos that weren't overexposed. Just for fun I even tried some long exposure shots but given the lack of tripod and ND filters, these did not turn out at all. With a handful of photos in the bag, I headed back up the hill to the track junction, taking a left turn to visit Fergusson Falls. Right before reaching the falls there is a patch of fern filled undergrowth that was a stark change from what I had seen for most of the stretch leading away from Du Cane Hut.
Arriving at Fergusson Falls, there is a rocky area you can reach if you can manage the steep climb down, and the young-uns from before were down there soaking in the warm sunshine downstream from the falls. I continued along the to viewing platform right next to Fergusson Falls, and with the view of the falls facing east, the bright sunshine wasn't so much of an issue for the photos. The vegetation does limit the view slightly but it's still possible to get right up close and admire the waterfall. There was a shelf like section of rock leading all the way along the edge of the cliff, and I was loving the cascading water against a branch that had lodged itself there. This was my favourite of the two falls, and I spent considerably more time here than at D'Alton Falls. Eventually dragging myself away, there was one more side trip for the day, where I would take a longer break.
Climbing back up to the first track junction, I passed Rob and Renee heading down to visit the two waterfalls, and I was soon reunited with my pack. The Tassie Walking Co group were taking a break at the junction, and feeling a lack of energy, I joined them while I had a long drink and some chocolate. The next section leading to the Hartnett Falls junction is only a kilometre long, and was contained the same kind of forest that was unfortunately too bright to showcase properly. Dropping my pack once again, I packed a towel and a drink bottle for the two kilometre return trip down to (Josh) Hartnett Falls as I called it. The guidebook says there is the opportunity to swim at either the top of the falls, or the bottom depending on your preference, so I would see what took my fancy when I arrived. After descending a little, the scenery opens up to reveal a bit of buttongrass among the dry sclerophyll forest, a lovely change.
Reaching the top of the falls, I couldn't see anyone around having a swim, so decided to go down to the bottom and check that out first before choosing a spot to take a dip. The path down to the edge of the Mersey River was a fun one, with a return of some wildflowers coupled with some stone steps leading towards the narrow ledge running parallel to the river. Here I found David and Obi sussing out the area but they decided to head back up to the top of the falls, where it was rumoured to contain warmer water. Looking at Hartnett Falls and seeing a wide swimming spot, I thought this would be an okay area to relax for a while and set about photographing it while things were relatively quiet. Having not expected to swim on the Overland Track, I hadn't packed board shorts but the consensus of the group was that underwear was an acceptable substitute. I had been joined by Bree and Gavin, along with Rose, while I was photographing the falls, and they were quick to strip off and negotiate the slippery rocks leading to deeper water.
To say the water was fresh was an understatement, and after many slips and slides in the shallow water, I was soon ready to take the plunge into deeper water. I don't think anyone was silent when they first jumped in, as the shock naturally causes you to ooo and arrr, but once you're in then it slowly gets better. Having not been happy with the bright sunlight earlier in the day, this was the payoff, enjoying a sun drenched swim in the cool alpine waters of Central Tasmania. As we all got in and out of the water over the course of the next hour or so, Jay, Sarah, Christie and their daughters joined us, along with the self proclaimed hippy family from Northern NSW. Having had a refreshing dip, I retreated back to the warmth of the ledge and had a chat with those that had joined the party. With a short day and long daylight hours, there was no rush, and this was one of the many highlights of the weeklong hike. Eventually I put my boots back on and climbed back up to the top of the falls to see if I could find David and Obi.
I found them upstream from the top of the falls, in an area that was quite shallow and contained a few nice looking platforms that you could use to relax in the sunshine. We had a bit of a chat before I departed up the hill to the main track for the last few kilometres into camp. Just as I reached the track junction, the clouds rolled over and I had a little chuckle that they would arrive at this point. Putting away my little day pack, I was soon heading off along the path, climbing up to the Du Cane Gap before descending down to Bert Nichols Hut. It's not a big climb compared to what I'd already covered on the Overland so far but over the next 2.5km you ascend 150 vertical metres. It doesn't take long before you are out of the temperate forest and in the dry sclerophyll forest that is home for the next couple of kilometres. The more open forest suited the sunshine a bit more, and the wildflowers and Pandani were keeping me busy taking photos.
Getting glimpses of the surrounding mountains was a nice return to the kind of walking that we'd seen a lot of so far this week. With a relatively easy day so far including a lengthy break, this didn't feel like a typical end to a day of hiking. The legs were feeling fresh and I was able to revel in the last few kilometres. The climb was a gentle gradient all the way, so I just took it as it came, stopping to photograph everything that took my fancy, or just enjoy lovely scenes like the flowing creeks. Near the top I spotted my first Tasmanian Christmas Bell, a species I'd seen plenty of on the South Coast Track last year but none so far on this trip. Spotting the sign for the top of the Du Cane Gap climb, it was all downhill from here. After passing a lovely patch of Pandani, you start to transition back into the temperate rainforest, and another highlight for the day. To my great delight, the clouds started to roll over, and I got my wish for some even lighting for the finish.
Passing an array of thick boi trees, all covered in moss around the base of their trunks, I was a little bit giddy as I ventured down the track. This kind of fairytale forest I thoroughly love hiking through, and it's hard not to find it a little bit whimsical with all the moss, babbling brooks and differently coloured fungi around. Continuing to descend, there are several moments where I just stopped and whispered a little "wow" to myself, including one where there are two massive trees you have to pass between that was just delightful. The pièce de résistance was a series of small rapids with moss covered rocks and decaying logs running along the creek. In lighting I experienced earlier in the day, this would be a spot that would look nice but you'd walk past. With even lighting thanks to the cloud cover, it transforms into a special scene that I tried my best to capture the essence of (see below gallery). I stayed here for a while, just shooting away from all different angles, and just admiring a classic Tasmanian scene. Prying myself away, I had soon reached the group tent sites, and then the regular tent sites, meaning Bert Nichols Hut wasn't far away.
One of the older huts in the same fashion as New Pelion, it's perched on the edge of the hill, with views looking across to the peaks you can do from the Pine Valley side trip further along. This is what Jay had decided to do earlier in the day, hiking on to the Pine Valley Hut and attempt The Acropolis and The Labyrinth before their finish at Narcissus Hut the following evening. With most of the tent platforms already taken, I placed my sleeping gear in one of the spare dorm rooms and set about checking out the rest of the hut. The large kitchen is the main area for socialising, and I enjoyed all the artwork on the roof, along with the information boards about the area, and the man the hut is named after. This would be the final night the bulk of our group would spend together, with some finishing up at Narcissus Hut the following day to catch the ferry, and some like me continuing to Echo Point and then walking around Lake St Clair to finish. As such, there was one final evening with the Helipad Social Club chatting and playing games well into the night. It had been a long week together but at the same time I felt like things were only just beginning, so it was a bit bittersweet to say goodbye to those who were on a different schedule to end.
Final Thoughts – You can't have everything the way you want it, and today was a good example of that.
Having said that, if the only thing that goes wrong on your hike is it being too sunny for parts of the day, then it's been a pretty good trip.
While you won't be scaling any large peaks today, the abundance of waterfalls more than makes up for that, and goes a long way to providing the variety that makes the Overland Track so special.
Waking up with that morning at Kia Ora, walking through stunning forests the whole day, and finishing with plenty of laughs and conversations at Bert Nichols, this is why I love hiking.
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