Bert Nichols to Narcissus
Overland Track
The Hike - Waking up on the penultimate day of my Overland Track adventure, today definitely had the feeling that things were coming to an end. With the option to skip the walk around Lake St Clair and take the ferry from Narcissus Jetty to finish, our group would unfortunately be splitting up. Having said some of our goodbyes the previous night, I didn't even hear Max and Laura get up and depart at 5am, even though they were sleeping right next to me. They had a 9:30am ferry to catch, so were keen to hike the 10.5km journey with a bit of time to spare.
Waking up a bit later, the older style huts are much better at keeping out the light with their cosier and darker construction. For me today, I would be hiking to Narcissus Hut, and then around Lake St Clair to the Echo Point Campsite. A few others were doing the same, including David, Alice, Obi and Rose, along with Rob and Renee, and the group of young-uns that we had caught up to at New Pelion. With no more mountains to climb (for my itinerary at least), and a lot of downhill/flat walking to get through, there was no rush this morning. Joining everyone in the communal kitchen, there was a lot of exchanging of details between everyone, as this was most likely going to be the last time some of us ever saw each other. Even though there was two full days of walking left for me, it did feel like this was the last day, as there was a bit of chatter about what food everyone was going to order at the Lake St Clair Lodge.
I was trying not to think about it too much, as I had started to feel a bit hungry by this stage, unusual for me on a multi-day hike, as I typically lose my appetite. Eventually I headed back to the room and started the process of packing everything up, not my favourite part of this hiking malarky. Ready to depart just after 9am, we said some almost final goodbyes to Laura and Ritchie, and it was time to head off to Narcissus. I'm going to break this day into two parts, as Narcissus is a main point of the track where you can cut your trip short, or continue along to Echo Point, and also because I took a lot of photos this day, so one post was going to be very long. It looked like the fine weather was going to continue, with bright blue skies all around, apart from a hint of cloud and mist hanging around over The Acropolis in the distance.
The walking to start the day was very similar to what you experience on the previous day heading uphill towards the Du Cane Gap, and this was alright with me. The dry sclerophyll forest looks much better in the sunshine, and there is usually a much better wildflower display, although this is typically offset in the temperate rainforest with more fungi. The first part of the day was getting to the Pine Valley Junction, where you can turn off and head up to Pine Valley Hut to hike both The Acropolis and The Labyrinth. My initial itinerary had me hiking from Bert Nichols, up to do both mountain side trips, before hiking on to Echo Point. While the distance would be a manageable 33km if I departed early enough, I soon realised that this might be too much, and given my relative lack of fitness leading up to this trip, it was the right decision.
Given the ferry can drop you off at Narcissus, I can return at a later date and do this section as a 2-3 day trip, taking in some other climbs while I'm at it. Enjoying the relaxing day ahead of me, the terrain sees you basically hike downhill from Bert Nichols all the way to the shores of Lake St Clair. Hiking through the forest, after a while it started to feel familiar, reminding me of my 2021 trip to Tassie and doing several day hikes around Lake St Clair. That was a nice feeling, along with the pleasant weather and variety of wildflowers, including Grass Triggerplants, Spreading Guinea flower, and my first Banksia flower of the entire trip. There are plenty of mature trees along this spot, and it continues a weeklong experience of walking through true wilderness. For the whole section leading to Narcissus Hut, you are walking parallel to the Narcissus River, although you'd never know it unless you looked at the map.
You get hints along the way, with several small streams and creeks crossing the track. Some are navigated over via small wooden bridges or steeping stones, with one particular area looking like it once belonged to a campsite. Being summer and having not rained for a couple of days, the water levels weren't very high, and the man-made structure along the banks was visible. Having crossed many creeks over the course of the week, this one really stood out. Continuing through the forest, it was just a pleasant meander, passing lots of characterful trees, wildflowers and big thick trunks. Every creek crossing provided something different to see, whether that be the style of crossing, the view looking up and down the creek, or an interesting bit of vegetation. After one of the larger creek crossings, I was happily surprised to enter a section of wetter forest.
The smooth bark of the eucalyptus trees was replaced with gnarly, moss covered bark, and a denser canopy above. Tunnels of thicker vegetation continued for a short while, with some larger trees presenting themselves occasionally, upright or otherwise. This all culminated in a couple of lovely creek crossing, the first on an old section of wooden boardwalk, complete with small rapids off to the left, and the second a series of stepping stones that ignited the inner child in me, as they tend to do. Returning to the eucalyptus forest, you pass a landmark of the day that is mentioned in the guidebook. Looking to your right, you can see an open area through the tree line that is dubbed as the "Bowling Green", a grassy area between the the forest and the mountains where the animals like to graze, although you don't get close enough to see if there are any out having a feed.
Another lovely view that you can see through the tree line is what I think is Mount Gould. With this whole section following the glacial valley that was carved during the last ice age, you are surrounded by mountains throughout the day, although seeing them is sometimes tricky. Back enjoying the smooth trunked forest, there was a flurry of wildflowers through here including the Lime Bottlebrush and Alpine Tea Tree, along with a colourful Soldier Beetle I noticed in the leaf litter. The excellent walking continued, and without much elevation change today, I could walk at a steady pace and indulge myself in stopping whenever I spotted something interesting, which was quite often. Throughout the course of the day, I had been introduced to a new wildflower along the Overland, the Mountain Guitar Plant, and it certainly had a lot of flair. Seeing plenty of examples, I took many photos, with the best examples in the gallery above.
Arriving at the Pine Valley Junction, this marks six kilometres of walking for the day, with only a four kilometre jaunt left to reach Narcissus Hut. Waiting here were Obi and Rose, enjoying a break while their parents caught up. I had been toing and froing with David and Alice all morning, as I'd catch up to them but then stop for a while to photograph something. I dropped my pack and found a place to sit, while chatting away with Obi and Rose about the mornings walking. While we were having a break, we were passed by a couple of hikers that were heading up to Pine Valley. Having spent the last few days with the same group, it was an odd feeling to see different hikers, and a sign that we were reaching the end. David and Alice joined us all, and eventually we all got going again. Obi and Rose shot off down the track, while I hung back, wanting some clear photos, and also walking a bit slower than they would.
Setting off, the excellent walking continued, with more dry sclerophyll forest providing plenty to enjoy. The wildflower finds continued, with my first ever Prickly Beauty sighting, along with coming across a patch of She-Oak. David and Alice had caught up by now and I let them past, as I was going to be much slower given the quality of the scenery through here. Not long after that, I heard an odd sound coming from behind me, like a repetitive knocking of something against metal. The cause of the sound soon revealed itself, as a group of climbers popped up from behind me and I let them pass. The helmets gave them away, and we'd see them again waiting for the ferry, hearing about their climbing adventures in the mountains above Pine Valley. The landscape was starting to open up a lot more, with more mountain glances coming into view.
Coming across more creek crossings, there is an abundance of boardwalk through this section, as the area becomes more and more inundated. The thicker vegetation is a giveaway that things have changed, and it makes sense given you're walking downhill towards the Narcissus River. It was getting to be a warm day, with temperature in the mid 20s according to BOM, but the clouds were starting to roll in. For now they were the landscape photographers dream, with fluffy white clouds spread out between blue skies. Patches of more open areas hinted at what was to come, and I got my first glimpse of Mount Olympus in the distance. I find the naming of the Tasmanian mountains to provide a lot of whimsy and this area is no different, with the likes of Mountains of Jupiter, The Parthenon, The Minotaur and Mount Olympus all invoking a sense of wonder in me.
Passing one of the girthiest trees I'd seen over the course of the week, it wasn't long before the mountain views overlooking the distant peaks really started to open up. Having walked what seemed like a good distance from the Pine Valley Junction, I had to be close to the Narcissus River crossing. Before reaching that fun highlight, there was one last treat in store. Catching up to David and Alice again on the edge of the buttongrass plains, I let them go on for a while in order to get clear shots leading down to the river. This was one of those moments where I walked super slow and was just in awe of the scene in front of me. Now out of the forest, the boardwalk guides you through the buttongrass plains, with Mount Olympus the big feature you walk towards. Add in some solitary trees standing proudly in the landscape, and this was one of those "I Still Call Australia Home" moments for me.
Taking way too many photos, I couldn't stop myself with such a lovely scene all around. Along with the beautiful vista ahead, there were distant peaks to my right, with Mount Byron, Mount Cuvier and Mount Manfred forming a trio of smaller looking hills, even though they are all over 1370m ASL. Passing the two nearest trees to the boardwalk, the views ahead were clear of foreground objects, and the fluffy white clouds provided a bit of majesty to the scene. With a big smile on my face, I eventually reached the suspension bridge over the Narcissus River. Being much more impressive than the Forth River crossing a few days ago, this is the only suspension bridge on the whole track. I love a good suspension bridge, and was soon bouncing my way over the gentle flow of this short but important river. Standing in the middle of the bridge, I stopped to take some photos and to see if I could spot any platypus frolicking in the water.
I didn't manage to see one but I did spot what I think is a Brown Trout cruising along. My lack of platypus was about to be forgotten, as I stepped off the bridge and continued along to Narcissus Hut. I heard a rustling in the bushes and sure enough, there was a Tasmanian Bush Floof (an echidna) wandering around the undergrowth looking for a tasty meal. Having seen many more echidnas in Tasmania than I have back home in Western Australia, I have since dubbed myself the Taswegin Echidna Whisperer, and to be honest, I'm surprised it took me until day six to see one. One of the guides from the Tas Walking Co had caught up to me, and was happy when I showed him my find. Not long after, I heard the calls of a Black Cockatoo, and located it sitting on a faraway tree near the river. Two fantastic finds in the space of a couple of minutes. After connecting back with the river again, I had soon reached Narcissus Hut, where I found David, Alice, Obi and Rose waiting.
Enjoying a swig of beverage on this warm day, we left our packs and wandered down to the jetty to see if we could find any of our traveling party waiting for their ride. Elliott and Anna were there waiting, and we watched while the ferry motored in, unloaded a group of passengers, and picked up the next lot. David and Obi went for a swim, and we ended up staying here for an extended lunch break. The group of climbers that passed me earlier arrived for a swim, and we found out they were from England, enjoying a spot of adventuring in the Tassie wilderness. They were extremely fit and athletic, and one of them did his best attempt at a handstand while we all watched with knowing smiles. I think I uttered the words "show them Rose", as we'd spent the week watching her effortlessly perform handstands at will, and she was itching to best these pretenders, and everyone had a good laugh. It was nice to be sitting in the shade and just enjoying the warmth of the day, and I would be lying if the thought of finishing here wasn't an attractive one. With a day and a bit of hiking left, I wanted to finish the whole thing, so we were soon back at the hut and ready to continue on to Echo Point.
Final Thoughts – One of the most relaxing sections of the Overland Track, by this time you should have your legs under you, and find this a relatively easy jaunt through the forest.
While the scenery only subtlety changes over the course of the ten kilometre hike from Bert Nichols to Narcissus, there is plenty to enjoy, especially when you're blessed with such great weather.
The real wow moment for me was getting to the buttongrass plains and that walk down to the Narcissus River, something I don't think I'll forget anytime soon.
If this is the last section of the Overland Track for you, then it's a great way to finish. If you're continuing on, then it's the first part of a really enjoyable day of walking.
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