Nuyts Wilderness Walk
Walpole-Nornalup National Park
Directions - From the centre of Walpole, head west along South Western Highway until you reach the turnoff for Tinglewood Road. Turn left and follow this all the way past the car park for Mount Clare. Keep driving along Tinglewood Road as it descend down towards the Deep River. The car park is located on the left hand side, with a small area to park in front of the wooden poles where the Bibbulmun Track crosses.
The Hike - The Nuyts Wilderness Walk has been on my radar for quite a long time but the opportunity to hike this one eluded me over the years. Having talked about it a few times on the podcast, I made some time to finally get out to the area while passing through on an epic three week hiking road trip. This area is one that I've always enjoyed visiting, with a few trips out here to hike the Deep River Walk Trail, along with passing through on the Bibbulmun Track as it comes into Walpole.
A bit of poor planning saw me without accommodation for the night in Walpole, as my favourite haunt, Tingle All Over, was fully booked when I was prepping a few weeks before my trip. When one door closes, another opens, so I took the chance to stay the night at the Mount Clare Campsite on the Bibbulmun Track. It's a place I've visited a few times before but have never stayed there, a wrong I would be righting. Carrying my overnight hiking gear with me, as I had a few nights on trail planned for later in the trip, I ended up being alone that night to enjoy this stunning campsite, set among the Tingle Forest. Waking up to a crisp morning, I packed up quickly, before walking back to my car and driving down to the start point near the Deep River. Enjoying breakfast was the tailgate of my car, this would be the first of many trails around the Walpole Wilderness today but this is the one I was most looking forward to.
Loading up with water and a couple of snacks, I was ready to go, and was soon walking down to the suspension bridge over the Deep River. It certainly felt like an adventure, crossing a large river and heading out into the wilderness, even though I knew what was coming for at least the first few kilometres. Last time I was here, I was racing the rain as I walked into Walpole, a race I ended up losing. While the grey clouds were hanging around today, there wasn't rain on the forecast. After photographing a favourite scene of mine, the bridge over the Deep River, I headed into the mixed Tingle and Karri Forest that is home for the first section. The Nuyts Wilderness Walk sees you progress through a variety of different vegetation types, and serves to provide a varied and interesting walk. Passing an old wooden shelter, I was enjoying the thick and lush forest while it lasted.
Being the height of spring, I was on the lookout for as many different wildflower and orchid species as I could find, and it wasn't long before I was clocking up the numbers. Photographing the trinity of common orchids around the forest of the South West, there were plenty of Pink Fairies, Cowslips and Purple Pansy Orchids lining the trail. Along with the orchids, there were plenty of other wildflowers out, with Karri Dampiera, Sail-boat Wattle and a Triggerplant spotted. Crossing Crystal Brook, the golden brown colour of the shallow water comes from the tannins that leech out of the eucalyptus leaves that are dropped. A large moss covered Karri tree is a feature as you cross the bridge, providing a nice photo opportunity. Rising up a small hill, you pass through a section of really nice forest that marks the end of the heavily vegetated walking.
There is one final green tunnel, with the sandy path lined with Bracken Fern and Grass Trees, before you pop out into the open. Marking a new phase of the walk, the white sands and low scrub will be your companion as you make your way south to the coast. Rounding a corner, my welcome present was a colony of tiny Narrow Lipped Hammer Orchids, so tiny that if you aren't looking out for them, you may miss them completely. Having seen my first ones at Goblin Swamp in 2022, anytime I am passing through sandy soils, I make sure to scan the edge of the trail for these delicate beauties. Down on all fours trying to get a decent photo, I eventually pried myself away from this spot to continue exploring. The wildflowers continued to be excellent as I made my way towards the main track leading south. Spotting a few Hooded Lilies and Mountain Kunzea among others, this was turning out to be everything I had hoped for.
Now I was out in the open, the grey clouds that provided excellent lighting in the forest, were now working against me. This is big sky country, with the low scrub providing a wide vista, but it was looking a little dull thanks to the overhead conditions. Reaching the main track that you share with the Bibbulmun Track, bright red markers point you in the right direction, through a She-Oak grove. Following an old management track until you reach the coast, the now disused road is starting to grow back but is still recognisable with the two paths for the wheels. Concentrating on trying to spot new wildflowers, I had my gaze fixed to the undergrowth and was rewarded with more Triggerplants, Jugflowers and Royal Robes. My path intersected with a Bibbulmun Track end to ender through here, and I stopped to have a chat about his experience so far, and the beauty of this part of Western Australia.
It's always nice to come across a Bibbulmun hiker, as they are generally happy to have a chat and discuss what makes the track an enjoyable place to be. Continuing on, I was keen to leave the Bibbulmun and start exploring territory I had not seen before. Reaching the junction in the track where the Nuyts Wilderness Walk continues straight, while the Bibbulmun heads to the right, the turn is well marked to avoid confusion. Passing a dieback station, I gave my trail runners a quick once over, before following the trail straight ahead. From here, there are no markers but there are no other tracks leading off the main one until you reach Thompson Cove. Now in unfamiliar country, it was a nice feeling to finally be out here to walk a trail that had taken me so long to get out and hike. A fun surprise not long after leaving the Bibbulmun was a mature stand of Holly-leaved Banksia, with their bright and distinct flowers reminding me of when I found them just after leaving Muttonbird Beach.
For the next three kilometres, you make your way along this dual line track, as you walk towards the coastline. Rather than make a beeline directly for the coast, it kind of meanders around, rolling up and over several small hills. This breaks up the walking into smaller sections, as you pass through subtle changes in the landscape, from open scrub to Peppermint groves, to patches of wildflower filled heath. Rising up every hill, I kept wondering if this was going to be the one that provided that first glimpse of the Southern Ocean, but there were a few false hopes in there. One bright spot, literally, was the blue skies that had appeared, almost on cue as I reached the coastline. I was secretly hoping that I would get better conditions for the coastal photos, and the weather gods had been listening in to my request. At the top of the last hill, the views started to open up as the granite boulders atop Mount Hopkins came into sight.
A side trip from Thompson Cove, I wouldn't have the time to explore the granite dome today, but I'm sure this won't be the last time I visit this trail. Eventually the Southern Ocean comes into view, and it was a magical moment returning to this part of the WA coast. With blue skies and stunning coastline to photograph, the profuse wildflower collection through here added another element to what was an amazing scene. At the bottom of the hill I reached the turn-off for Thompson Cove, the first of two coves to explore on the trail. A wooden sign points you onto a single track that leads further down the dune system and into a Peppermint grove where you'll find the aptly named Peppermints Campsite. A small patch of grass provides an area to pitch your tent, but this is a basic campsite with no water tank or toilet, so come prepared.
At the southern end of the grassy patch is an overgrown trail that will take you down to Thompson Cove. It's hard to find the trail to start with, but once you find it, it's hard to lose, even when it gets super thick that you have to force your way through. Eventually it starts to thin out as you look down at Thompson Cove, an idyllic little bay with a small beach. Hopping onto the sand, this sheltered little cove is a fantastic spot to be, especially when you have it all to yourself. Crossing the small creek that flows into the bay, the rocks make life easier to access all areas of the cove. With granite slopes on either side, there is a small shallow section to enjoy a swim if the weather is warm but as always with the South Coast, take care when entering the water. I had a bit of an explore, finding some shy Purple Rock Crabs and admiring the patterns in the rock, caused by thousands of years of wind, waves and rain.
With plenty of photos on the memory card, I decided to head back up the path and on towards Aldridge Cove. Battling my way back up the path, I spotted some Crane Flies having a bit of a tangle near the campsite. Reaching the wide management track again, I turned left to head towards the end of the coastline. Winding around a corner, I heard a familiar cry and eventually spotted the Black Cockatoos that they belonged to. Getting a blurry photo as they settled in the green valley below where I was, it's always nice to see them in the wild. Rising up and over a small hill, the reward was seeing the best coastline views of the entire walk as you walk towards the Aldridge Cove Lookout. With shiny granite cliffs sloping gently into the ocean, combined with some sharper drop-offs, this is wild coastline and it's a stunning sight.
Descending down towards the lookout, and the end of the road literally, a granite platform provides an excellent spot to stand and take it all in. Staring down at the waves crashing against the jumble of granite boulders along the coastline provided some fun photos, but the real delight is soaking in the views of the coastline and Aldridge Cove to your right. There is a rocky trail that takes you along the edge of the coast, and as I write this, I cannot remember why I didn't take it to go visit Aldridge Cove. Perhaps I didn't think I'd have the time but as I said before, I will return one day. If it is a wild and windy day, take care along this section, with a plaque for a lost soul at the Aldridge Cove Lookout providing a reminder of how dangerous this coast can be. With about eight kilometres of walking to get through to reach the start point again, I took some last photos and doubled back to reach the management track.
While not everyone enjoys an out and back trail, I really enjoy them, as you get to see things from a different perspective, and maybe see something you didn't notice on the walk out. This definitely turned out to be true in my case, with several wildflowers finds I missed, including a colony of Karri Snail Orchids, some Fringe Lilies, and a Common Scaly-foot, a type of legless lizard. Getting perfect symmetry for this hike, as I headed back inland, the cloud cover returned. Given the better lighting this would provide when I reached the forest once again, I wasn't complaining. After many kilometres of sandy walking, I reached the forest once again, a favourite place of mine to just meander around and not think about too much. Soaking up the last of the Tingle forest, I crossed the Deep River, signed my name in the logbook at the bridge, and was soon at my car with another fantastic trail experience under my belt.
Final Thoughts – The Nuyts Wilderness Trail is finally on the website, and I'm happy to have finally hiked this lovely trail.
As one of the last hikes in the Walpole Wilderness I'd not done, it rounds out what is a diverse and enjoyable collection of trails that really showcases what makes this area so special.
Visiting in spring certainly livens up this trail, especially on the longer sections of management track walking, but the variety to be found here should make things feel great anytime during the year.
If you want to spend more time at the coves, then the option to camp at Thompson Cove is fantastic, and one I'll be taking in the future.
If you're looking for a longer hike around Walpole, then check out the Nuyts Wilderness Walk.
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