Bidjar Ngoulin to Lake Brockman
Munda Biddi Trail
Start
Bidjar Ngoulin Hut
Time
3-4 Hours
Finish
Lake Brockman
Date Ridden
24th August 2021
Length
36.7km
Elevation
623m
Traditional Custodians
Pinjarup People
The Ride - Here we go. This section was one I was not looking forward to riding from the very start and after hearing a first hand account of the terrible scenery through here, I was at least mentally prepared for the worst today. There are two factors going into making this section the worst one on the entire Munda Biddi (my personal opinion of course) with the bushfires that hit this area in 2015 combined with the cancerous destruction of the northern Jarrah forests by Alcoa, South32 and others. I'll try not to go into full rant mode on this one as I really tried to go into the section with a positive and unbiased mindset.
After a rest at the Bidjar Ngoulin Campsite for lunch, we refilled water bottles and packed our things away to begin the second half of the day. The goal was Lake Brockman where we had booked a cabin to stay in for the night and my aim was to fly through this section and reach the accommodation before the shop closed so we could pick up some snacks. As I had the paper maps and Aron had bought the Munda Biddi app on his phone, it was no surprise that the start of this section would involve some climbing with a big puppa (100m+ climb) on the cards after leaving camp. Leaving just after midday, the sun had been quite warm during the mid-morning and would only get hotter from here. Being on a pretty exposed vehicle track as we started climbing didn't help and the fires had gone a long way to getting rid of any canopy that may have been there in the first place. This type of recovering forest is not too pleasant to walk/ride through with the large trees all sprouting green jumpers thanks to the epicormic regrowth and the ground level full of tunnels of invasive plants like Soap Bush that grow rapidly after fire.
Combined with the dread of what was to come, I didn't overly enjoy this section so put my head down and played some podcasts to lighten the mood. Joined by Sean Fennessy, Amanda Dobbins and Chris Ryan from The Big Picture as they went through another movie draft made the climbing easier and gave me some ideas for my own podcast. There were brief moments of enjoyment along the trail with some flowering Wattle, Golden Buttercups and some WTF items that had been dumped including a bar stool and a pram. I feel these just add to the character of this section and I hope they stay there, becoming public art pieces commenting on the relationship society as a whole has with this section of the track. Reaching the steepest part of the climb, the forest opens up and you are left very exposed to the sun, adding to the displeasure of the experience. For over a kilometre here you are on gradients ranging from 6 to 12% and eventually both Aron and I were off the bikes, pushing them up the hill. At the top of the hill you are rewarded with the first of many Alcoa artefacts, the tunnel under the hauling road that will be familiar to any Bibbulmun Track hiker that has dropped a car off at the Driver Road bridge.
This is also your first up close experience with the environmental destruction leftover from bauxite mining as through the tunnel and across the road is the vacant land left after all the trees have been cleared and the top level of soil removed. Unfortunately for the northern Jarrah forests, the mining of bauxite involves pushing over all the trees and stripping the shallow top layer where it is found. Given the small depth to the mining operation, large tracts of land need to be cleared and the effects of this can be seen over time by either looking at a map in Satellite view or by visiting this WalkGPS page that has a time-lapse of the effect. The major players in bauxite mining around here (Alcoa and South32) negotiated the expansive leases back in the 1960s and as a result, the future of these forests were decided back when little care was given to environmental concerns. They still need EPA approvals to expand operations and public consultation will take place around Christmas of 2021 so to keep aware of this issue and to make your voice heard follow either the WA Forest Alliance or Save our Jarrah as they will announce when all the important milestones are happening. As far as the riding goes, you run parallel to Nanga Road for a while on single track that is actually a nice trail to follow if the cleared views to the right weren't super terrible.
Arriving at a turn that takes you off Nanga Road, Aron decided he would just follow Nanga Road and meet up with the track a bit further on. I wanted to experience this section for all it was worth, good or bad, so we agreed he would wait at the junction where our two paths would meet next. Following the King Jarrah Form again, it was pleasant riding through the relatively untouched sections of forest and a stark reminder of what the surrounding area could look like if it wasn't ripped up or slated to be ripped up in the future. I enjoyed the riding while it lasted until I reached a set of restricted access gates and things went slightly pear shaped. From a distance it looked like the sides were blocked off and upon reaching them, it seemed to me that all access was not allowed as the sign is poorly worded. To me it read that access to riders was restricted as it states "Access Restricted to Munda Biddi / Waterous Bike Track Users". In the heat of the day and not enjoying this section so much, I decided to follow Driver Road and avoid riding through this area as I knew it would get me back to Nanga Road and where Aron was headed. Unfortunately the paper maps are really outdated through here as the track keeps getting diverted due to mining but with a small amount of reception I loaded up Google Maps to confirm, along with messaging Donovan about the gates.
After faffing about trying to confirm my location and bearings, I eventually reached Aron, who had wondered what I was doing. Continuing on, we reached the first of two sections where they aren't even trying to hide the rampant destruction that is involved with bauxite mining. Right next to the road is just a very large cleared section of land with diggers roaming about and large piles of trees just left lying around to be burnt in what is an extremely wasteful process. I took a few photos of the devastation and left a little saddened at what I was seeing (may have also given the finger to the security cameras that are setup out there). We set off, following the Munda Biddi markers through a scrappy looking section that bordered yet more cleared land until we reached another gate where I explained to Aron that the sign could be a little clearer. Reaching another gravel road, we saw some Black Cockatoos that were probably wondering what was happening to their home and feeding areas. This road leads to the second blatant section of clearing and this one was much worse than the first. As far as the eye could see leading up the hill was just a wasteland and the front end loader moving the dirt around made for a scene reminiscent of Fern Tree Gully.
Again, I took some photos, lamented the horrible situation WA is in with these mining leases and really just wanted this section to be over. Unfortunately from this point you head up a medium puppa hill on the wide road that in the blazing sun wasn't very fun, especially with mining utes cruising by. At the top was the last of the hauling road tunnels followed by a bridge over a conveyor belt and thankfully this would be the end of the visible mining impact for this section. On the edge of the forest we were about to head into were more Black Cockatoos and I hope their survival is not compromised by the mining expansion plans as they really are magnificent and cheeky birds. Heading away from the mining area, the soft sandy track wasn't ideal but soon changed to hardened gravel as you enter a scrappy bit of forest that looks as if it was or still is a hard wood plantation as sections contain perfectly lined rows of trees. Happy just to be anywhere else but bauxite boulevard, I reached the edge of a farm and waiting for Aron to catch up after a long and bumpy descent. From here the day transformed into a much more enjoyable experience with some really nice forest, some thick areas of swampy vegetation and eventually a cool granite platform on the edge of a hill.
The granite platform meant we were close to Lake Brockman and the end of another relatively long day was near. There were plenty of wildflowers around this spot with some Pink Fairy Orchids bringing a smile to my face, lots of Wattle, some Darwinnia and Prickly Hakea rounding out the fun finds. The short granite riding was a nice call back to the section after Brookton Highway but the steep and eroded hill after it wasn't very fun at all. The reward though was some nice views overlooking the farmland below and the Swan Coastal Plain. The downhill stretch along the edge of the farmland was good riding and eventually you pop out onto the edge of Blackburn Road that runs around the northern edge of Lake Brockman. The lake itself is not a natural occurrence with Logue Brook Dam providing the stopping power for this much water to be held back. We checked out the edge of the lake from the first access point where there is a large bank stopping the water from flowing down the hill. Continuing on, you follow Blackburn Road all the way along the edge of the lake towards the proper dam wall and past some of the best forest of the whole day. This was a really enjoyable section with the tarmac allowing a greater average speed and the afternoon sun providing some fantastic lighting.
The finishing line was in sight but the only problem was that it was on the other side of the lake and required going the long way around to reach it (I've heard from someone that The Long Way's Better). Reaching the dam wall, Aron soldiered on while I hung back to take photos of the scenery and brutalist architecture. From the end of the dam wall it's about 2km to the Lake Brockman Tourist Park where we were staying the night with a smol puppa hill in the way. Being on road made this easier and the thought of a shower and rest spurred us on. In the end we didn't make it in time for the shop to still be open so had to dive into our dehydrated meals for dinner. We grabbed our key from the reception drop box, found our minimalist cabin and set about unpacking, showering and organising for dinner. With a nice sunset shaping up, we took our drinks down to the edge of the lake and watched the sun slowly descend towards the horizon. Not even the racket of jet skis (dirt bikes of the water) could detract from this and it made for a memorable finish to what had been a not very enjoyable second half of the day. Retiring to our cabin, we were both in bed pretty early and I don't think I made it past 9pm before I was fast asleep.
Final Thoughts - This was a section I had earmarked as being a head down, bum up experience whereby I knew it wasn't going to be pleasant but just had to deal with it.
I've already rattled on a bit about bauxite mining but it seems to be an issue that is largely ignored by people in WA as it's a bit "out of sight, out of mind". If everyone cycled through here then the perception would be different and to be honest, I'm surprised they have the track run right along some pretty terrible scenes.
Much like the Bibbulmun Track, the Munda Biddi Foundation is sponsored by these mining companies and it's a very cheap form of greenwashing that I wish didn't happen. When the Munda Biddi Foundation starts charging for membership, I would gladly pay more each year if it meant they were independent and didn't have to take money off the likes of Alcoa.
The issue is a tricky one as bauxite mining employs some people in WA and there are royalties paid to the state (about 7.5% according to this 2017 request by former Greens Member, Hon Diane Evers). The irony here is that most riders coming through here, including me, will be riding bikes made of aluminium so it presents a bit of a pickle if you like having a functional forest around.
The strawman argument of "you consume, therefore you cannot speak" is a little tiring when it comes to these discussions as I believe there has to be a point where we as a people of Western Australia say no more and value the remaining forests as homes to critically endangered fauna, carbon storage and a wonderfully biodiverse ecosystem.
Despite their claims of best practice rehabilitation, the efforts so far are very underwhelming with the forest not growing back to anything like it was before, as shown in this video from a couple of places that were previously mined. The Jarrah forest relies heavily on the soil layers that are stripped out and taken away so of course it will never be the same. If you're reading this from Alcoa's greenwashing team then don't bother emailing me like you have others, you won't like the response.
If you would like to watch a comprehensive presentation by experts about the big issues instead of reading my ramblings then check out the video I've placed at the end of this post.
So...a below average section thanks to bushfire affected forest and then bauxite mining. At least the final resting spot is enjoyable.
For more information on the Munda Biddi Trail please visit the website and if you are a regular user of the track or want to give back to this free resource then please consider becoming a member of the Munda Biddi Foundation. The track is improving all the time and membership goes a long way to supporting and maintaining the trail as it continues to improve.