Mount Field West
Mount Field National Park
Directions - Located 90 minutes west of Hobart, take the Brooker Hwy north and follow the signs for New Norfolk. Pass through the town and follow the signs for Westerway and then Mount Field National Park. Pass the visitor centre and drive up the winding Lake Dobson Road all the way to the car park at Lake Dobson. The trail starts near the day-use hut.
The Hike - Ever since my first visit to Mount Field National Park in 2018, there was one hike that I looked at and really wanted to do. Having tackled the Tarn Shelf Circuit and enjoyed that immensely, my thoughts after that were towards the Rodway Range and Mount Field West, the highest point of the park. Having loved my first taste of Tassie, there would be no doubt that I'd be back to experience the great hiking that is on offer here. The opportunity to return for a third time in three years presented itself with a self-drive holiday proposed by my partners Aunt and Uncle, instead of a wine and cheese hike that we'd been on before (see the Three Capes and Bay of Fires posts to read all about them).
After a relaxed start to the day that included a nice home cooked breakfast at our accommodation, we made our way up to the Lake Dobson car park and tackled the Pandani Grove Nature Walk first. It was a nice warm-up and one I was happy to finally put on the website given it provides an accessible walk to those that maybe don't have the fitness or time to tackle the more strenuous alpine walks that start from Lake Dobson. With the Pandani Grove walk finished we set about repeating the first section of that walk to get onto the Urquhart Track that leads up the hill towards the Mount Mawson Ski Field. No one else was keen to tackle the 20km return trip to the summit of Mount Field West but I had convinced them that hiking up to the Rodway Hut was a great chance to see the Tarn Shelf in the distance and perhaps get to see the changing colours of the fagus that this part of Tassie is famous for. Even though it was a bit of a climb (Caris isn't a fan of big climbs), they all agreed and would join me on this first part up the mountain.
Finding the Urquhart Track a short distance into the walk along Lake Dobson, I was familiar with this one after coming back down it on the Tarn Shelf Circuit. I was looking forward to doing it in the reverse direction, even if that meant hiking up the somewhat mundane vehicle track leading to the ski clubs. The Urquhart Track was magnificent though with a narrow path leading through the Snow Gums and Pandanis containing a wealth of interesting life. The pace was slow going and it wasn't due to the increased gradient, we were all having a good look around at the various berries, moss, fungi and lichen. I was having a blast stopping every few steps and taking a photo of something that caught my eye or a new view of the lake below. The single track lasts about 600m before you reach the zig zag of the vehicle track and begin a bit of a slog up the wide road. Around this time we were passed by a few groups and not wanting to push my luck with my group, decided that a slow pace would be a good thing. While everyone made their way up to the various ski clubs that are built at the top, I took great pleasure in photographing the Snow Gums and the moody scenes looking back the track towards Platypus Tarn and Lake Seal.
Making it to the top where the Oldina Ski Club and Mount Mawson Ski Lodge are located, I regaled everyone with a tale about how my Tarn Shelf Circuit post was shared by a popular page on Facebook and some old man tried to have a go at me for taking a closer look at the ski clubs because they were private property. I'm sorry but you build your private properties in the middle of a national park and people will have a look, I wasn't breaking in but was curious as to what they were on my first visit. I had a bit of a brain blank here and was sure the climbing was mostly out of the way so when we joined the Snow Gum Track, Caris wasn't a happy bunny given the terrain was still going up. Luckily this is the start of some pretty terrain that would last all the way to the summit of Mount Field West. It had started to mist over again as we climbed up the rocky path and through the Snow Gums so I was a bit wary I might have dragged everyone up here just to get white-out conditions. Reaching the first of many lookouts along this stretch, the views down to Lake Seal were excellent and worth the journey up here for.
We kept going and on towards the official Lake Seal Lookout where the Tarn Shelf Track and the Snow Gum Track meet. Boardwalk through this section helped pick up the pace and the terrain had now flattened out relative to what we had just done. Lake Seal Lookout is a short detour off the main track but provides the best views along this stretch looking out over the lake and across the valley to the beginnings of the Tarn Shelf. The mist was sweeping in and out of the valley, creating some fantastic scenes where parts were hidden one second and then revealed in all their glory the next. Moving along the boardwalk heading towards Rodway Hut, the moody conditions continued and I was slightly worried that this would be what I'd experience at higher altitudes later on in my hike. For now though it was a case of admiring the stunning views looking across to the Tarn Shelf that was very inviting but not what I was here for today. I searched in the distance for the orange hues of the Fagus changing colours in autumn but could not see a hint of it yet.
Reaching the wooden boards that mark the track intersection between the Tarn Shelf Track and the Rodway Range, the Rodway Hut was a short trip down the hill but the others weren't too keen on heading down just to hike back up. We admired the views for a little longer before I wished everyone good luck on their return journey back to Lake Dobson along with promising Caris she could have all my stuff if I died. Ahead of me was new terrain that I was keen to explore and looking up at the climb, I was wondering how much I would actually be seeing. Following the markers up the hill, this would be a 100m vertical ascent to the top of the Rodway Range but it felt like more than that thanks to the very rocky nature of the track. After passing under the old ski lift that leads up the hill from the Rodway Hut, I encountered the first of many boulder sections that would require a bit more thought to navigate than the usual left-right-left walking combination. While there was the occasional orange pole to see where the next section of track took you, navigation is via the rather obvious red paint on rock method that while useful in guiding you, isn't very leave no trace. With the weather not getting any better, I had fun shooting in the moody conditions and was joined by a Currawong.
Rather than seeing this as an ominous sign with their yellow eyes and black body seeming a little sinister, I enjoyed the company like I did whenever I came across a Raven on the Cape to Cape Track. The terrain flattened out eventually and I was left in a landscape that resembled the opening scenes of the Two Towers. I may have quoted a few lines from their time trying to find a way through Emyn Muil because it really felt like I'd been here before when I came across a new boulder field. Descending down into a little valley provided a pretty cool wow moment as you are presented with a rubble pile of very large boulders strewn up and down the depression that I believe is called the Lions Den (Tassie really know how to name their tracks). The photos don't really show the scale but as you walk along the northern edge you can't stop looking at them in awe. There is another small uphill through yet another rocky obstacle course and it was a case of negotiating a section, stopping and then trying to find the next cairn or orange marker. From here it's a sustained downhill where you get a tricky experience jumping from rock to rock with some a lot more stable than others. It's slow going and I didn't really have anything else to distract me with a wall of grey ahead of me. This felt very familiar as the last stretch up to the summit of Mount Field East is like this and one I'd done on my first visit here in 2018.
It was at this point I was starting to think that I'd never get clear skies and this hike might have to be one for the personal collection rather than shared on here simply because a post with nothing but grey photos wouldn't be very interesting. Trudging over the boulders carefully and then down rocky streams, I caught a glimpse of the tarns below and it gave me a little hope. Passing some pines and towards the bottom of the hill, I was rewarded with the parting of the clouds to the north and the glorious Hayes Valley revealed itself. To the right was the striking formation that is called The Watcher with the K-Col Track snaking through the landscape towards it. I was a happy hiker to see a view of any sort and this was the point where I hit a groove and it started to feel really good. Reaching some boardwalk was a lovely relief and it marks the intersection of the K-Col Track and Mount Field West Track. Taking the K-Col Track runs you past The Watcher and eventually links you up with the back end of the Tarn Shelf Circuit but my journey today was taking me west. I love the weathered and lichen covered wooden signs here pointing you in different directions as it has so much character from surviving in the harsh alpine conditions over the years.
From this spot you can see the track leading up the hill towards the K-Col Hut, an emergency use only shelter that is one of many spread throughout Mount Field. I had a bit of a break here, signed the log book and enjoyed a sit down out of the wind. It's a cramped place but it's not meant for too many people and is really only if you're in desperate need. I had a navigational error here as I followed an incorrect path up the hill instead of going to the right of the hut and joining the proper track. It wasn't long before I realised the error of my ways and course corrected. Looking back at the hut and the Rodway Range, the weather had cleared significantly and it was almost an idyllic autumnal day in the mountains. As I continued forth on my hike, there was still a shroud hanging over Naturalist Peak and its full character had not yet been revealed. The mystery would remain for now as my gaze kept wandering to The Watcher and the glacial valley carved out below me. The glimmer down below of Lake Hayes grew brighter as the rolling mists blew over and a swath of Pandanis added an interesting focal point to photograph. As I'd descended down to the same altitude as when the others departed back to Lake Dobson near the Rodway Hut, there was a lot of climbing to go until I'd reach my turnaround point.
This was a really magical stretch as the flatter section made it easy to pick up the pace but that was balanced out by my frequent stopping to take it all in and photograph every last detail. Passing Clemes Tarn, I had a brief look around before continuing along the path as I noticed the mist starting to disperse a bit more. I would be coming back this way so figured I could spend more time exploring this spot that I would find out is one of the wild places you can camp at up here. The best views were across the valley and back towards where I had come from and I was hoping that the winds would push that final bit of mist over the peaks by the time I arrived. What the rolling mist did do is give Naturalist Peak this powerful presence as I'd get glimpses of the craggy spires and then moments later they'd be shrouded again. Not being able to see what was ahead of me, I initially thought that Naturalist Peak was Mount Field West and every new view I got of the summit had me wondering how I was ever going to get to the top.
My mind kept tracing paths up and over what looked like very dangerous terrain and the best solution I could come up with was that the track looped back around the other side. My hopes of the mist blowing over started to look like reality as I approached the real climbing again. Looking back towards The Watcher, things were starting to get a little grey with visibility greatly reduced compared to five minutes previous. The climbing is once again a combination of boulder hopping and walking up flowing streams and I was happy with my decision to bring my old boots along instead of my trail runners. My main reason was the muddy tracks that Tassie is famous for, I didn't once think I would end up hiking along so many flowing creeks as I ended up doing throughout the trip. Eventually the summit of Naturalist Peak could be seen in partial clarity and still not being able to see Mount Field West, I kept plotting what I thought was the intended course in my head. Reaching the base of Naturalist Peak, it became obvious that the track kept going and I remembered one of the blog posts about this track I'd read years ago commenting on reaching a plateau and still having a while to go before reaching the highest point in the park.
Reaching the plateau, the terrain changes once again from rocky boulder fields to boggy, tarn filled alpine fields. This is where I found it most difficult as the path isn't very well defined and at times there is no option but to step on the fragile Cushion Plants that call this place home. Those that know me are aware I have a thing about people stepping on moss that grows on the granite platforms and peaks of Western Australia and I feel the same here in Tassie about the Cushion Plants. Sometimes it can't be avoided and it's clear that hikers have been as sensitive as they can be with no wide diversions to avoid muddy boots. It's something you can't avoid so don't come up here expecting to leave with dry boots. It makes for an interesting experience though as you can never tell how deep your next step will go. Will it be sole deep or ankle deep? Luckily there are some rocky sections to ease the passage and with all the mist hanging around it felt like I was in a world all to myself. Still unable to see Mount Field West I continued on and thankfully the heavens parted. Looking behind me, the now not so intimidating Naturalist Peak came into view and looked like a small hill compared to the striking views you get climbing past it.
Eventually more sky started to clear and Mount Field West came into view for the first time. Given that it only sticks its head just above water (the plateau), it's not the mightiest of peaks from this angle but my opinion on it was about to change. Reaching the base, it became clear that it would be an old fashioned scramble to the top so after admiring a little chasm to the right, I proceeded up the last few vertical metres. Approaching the last little bit, the track takes you rather close to the edge of the cliff that didn't look as daunting due to the mist that was still hanging around. I thought it was a decent drop but had no idea how big until a bit later. Arriving at the summit cairn I was pleased to have finally made it as so far my journey had taken me four hours. Going off the time I had taken so far, I had estimated the real time to be around 1pm based on my perceived start time but I had got that entirely wrong. It was in fact closer to 2pm and with 10km to go through tricky terrain, my time at the summit would have to be limited if I wanted to make it back to the car before dark. Telling myself not to worry about that, I took a deep breath to reset and set about exploring the summit a bit while praying for the mist to disappear.
Much like my Bluff Knoll sunrise hike in 2020, I had a great turn of luck as about a minute after arriving at the summit the mist magically blew over and I was left i awe of my surroundings. What I thought was a decent drop off to the south of the peak turned out to be a very large depression and on the other side were these dramatic dolerite pillars that oozed wildness. Having a couple of hours ago resigned myself to not getting views of any kind, this was certainly a welcome change of fortune. I clicked away frantically at every angle just in case the weather blew back over but it became clear (pun intended) that the bright skies were here to stay for a while. On a very crisp day the whole of the South West of Tasmania can be seen but I was happy enough to spot Lake Gordon in the distance, a place that was next on the holiday agenda. Aware that time was against me, took some last photos looking back at the plateau that from this vantage point, in this weather looked entirely different from my experience earlier hiking through the mist.
With about two and a half hours of sunlight, I acknowledged that the time estimates that Tas Parks gives are pretty realistic with this hike listed as an 8-9 hour trek. Even with my slower than usual start and taking a million photos on the way up, the nature of the track means there are limited spots to really put the hammer down and make up some time. Descending down from the summit, I really appreciated how big that drop off was right near the top. With bright blue skies I had a feeling I would be taking a lot more photos on the way home and this turned out to be the case as I walked past a great number of small alpine tarns that litter the plateau section. Out and back trails get a bad reputation as being somewhat boring because you're hiking the same path twice but I love them as you get a different perspective and in this case, the chance for a completely different weather experience. Getting both a misty and a clear run through this section made it feel like a different hike and the photos could certainly fool you if you didn't know better.
As I passed the base of Naturalist Peak I came across another day hiker and wondered if he would have enough time to make it to the summit and back to Lake Dobson in the daylight given I was pushing it for time. Descending down the rocky section towards K-Col Hut, the views back towards Naturalist Peak looked much less daunting and the bright conditions made the photos look completely washed out. One thing that was different along this stretch with the clearer skies was Florentine Peak now visible in all its glory to the south. Speaking of glory, the lower hills near Florentine Peak are hilariously named The Knobs (North and South). Reaching Clemes Tarn again, the difference in conditions made for much better photos and while I had been up at the summit, a couple of groups had setup camp for the night. It's a stunning spot and I can see the appeal of hiking up here and spending the night in the mountains. As I made up time on the flats heading towards K-Col Hut, a quick look behind me revealed the mist rolling in once again.
With the afternoon light having a sifter glow to it, K-Col Hut was looking a treat and I afforded myself some time to slow up and photograph it properly. I found a pretty patch of red Mountain Rocket, a plant I had seen all along the track but hadn't managed to get a good photo of until now. This part of the hike was good fun as it felt like I was racing the mist back to the start as I departed K-Col and headed towards the rocky scramble up to the top of the Rodway Range. With no mist it was nice to see what it actually looked like but about halfway up I lost the race against the weather and soon I was shrouded in the white out conditions. While it would have been nice to have it clear all the way to the finish, I counted myself lucky to experience what I did over the course of the last six hours. Settling into the climb, I don't mind the moody conditions and the boulder fields have an ambiance to them when you can only see a few rocky crags ahead of you. It wasn't all bad with patchy sections of clear weather and views of Lake Seal that I didn't get to see the first time was a nice surprise.
At one point it was like I was looking directly down at the Tarn Shelf and I had answered a question I posed to myself when doing that hike in 2018. Peering up at the snowy peaks, I wondered what it would be like to hike up there and now I know (just without the snow). The Lions Den was still a grey experience but I think that just makes it look better and I had one final climb to go before it would be a full on descent to Lake Dobson. I passed a couple heading the other way and one was trusted with a large backpack while the other had a baby attached to their front. I wished them well and pondered that they were probably enjoying the ultralight version of their kid before it got too heavy and complained too much. I could see people down below on the Tarn Shelf Circuit but my legs were starting to feel the constant pounding of stepping down on rocky ledges and having my knees take my body weight with every step. It's a physical track and there are not many places you can put it in cruise control to pound out the kilometres.
As I passed under the old ski lift, I knew it wouldn't be long until I would reach some easier hiking. The boardwalks near Rodway Hut were a welcome relief and I was treated with a lovely light show thanks to the approach of golden hour. The mist was probably a bit too heavy for a glorious sunset to the west but it was still very pretty looking across to the Tarn Shelf and over Lake Seal. I stopped again at the Lake Seal Lookout and with purple and golden hues shimmering off the surface of the lake, this was a very nice way to finish what had been an epic hike. With the sun setting below the Rodway Range, I knew lighting would be an issue for the rest of the hike and descending down into the shadow of the mountain wouldn't make that any better. Luckily I was still able to shoot with a steady hand and the white Snow Gums looked stunning against the light golds of the eastern skies. I made it to the shores of Lake Dobson with pink hues lighting up the sky and a giant smile on my face. This was a tough hike with changing conditions throughout but what a day.
Final Thoughts - This is the big daddy of Mount Field National Park and being the highest point of the whole park naturally makes it a drawcard.
Having hiked Mount Field East and the Tarn Shelf Circuit, I was looking forward to returning one day to reach the upper reaches of this beautiful place.
After a summer of not hiking and getting out more on the road bike, this one kicked me hard with the physicality of it. There aren't many stretches where you can put autopilot on and just cruise. The elevation changes while not jaw dropping, the way they happen just takes a toll thanks to the frequent boulder fields and muddy sections.
As hiking days go, this one was another epic and I'm happy to have received a range of conditions that made for a fantastic time on the trail.
Get out there and experience it!
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