Meander Falls
Meander Conservation Area
Directions - Meander Falls is located south west of Deloraine, to get there cross the Deloraine River and head south on Highland Lakes Road. This becomes Meander Road, which you follow all the way to the small settlement of Meander, continuing straight on Huntsman Road, past Lake Huntsman, and then right onto the unsealed Meander Falls Road. Follow this all the way to the end, where you will find a small car park near the trail head.
The Hike - Visiting Tasmania as part of a New Years trip to finally hike the Overland Track, this would be my final day of pre-OT hiking, before heading back to Launceston to prepare for the week long adventure ahead. Having spent the previous day hiking up to the summit of Cradle Mountain, plus some shorter walks within the park, today I would again be tackling some trails near my accommodation in Deloraine. After a bit of a lazy morning spent resting, eating and trying to find the motivation to head out, I finally began the drive out to Meander Falls.
After successfully locating the car park after a maze of unsealed roads, the number of cars here indicated I would be seeing a few other hikers on my journey. Looking forward to getting in another of the well regarded waterfall hikes in Tasmania, this would be one of the toughest trails, and one I didn't really grasp how difficult it would be beforehand. When I think about waterfall hikes, I generally assume they will be gentle trails, mostly flat or downhill. Not Meander Falls. Located at the foot of the Central Highlands, on the eastern side of where the famous Walls of Jerusalem passes through, this would essentially be a mountain hike with a waterfall at the end. To start with, the trail is relatively straight forward, with a firm but rocky path leading through the forest. Early on there are a couple of spots where you can get out onto a large boulder, and experience the views looking down the Meander River Valley.
For the most part, this first section stays away from the edge of the river, as you negotiate your way over fallen logs and a jumble of rocks and tree roots. It takes a while before the character of this trail starts to shine through, so don't be worried if you're just whelmed by the beginning of the hike. Reaching a wooden sign, it points you in the direction of the Wood Maynard Loop, that is a different option if you want to take it, and the Dixons Track that takes you up into the highlands. I continued to follow the Meander Falls Track, utilising one of many small wooden bridges that takes you over a small stream feeding into the Meander River. Not long after this you come across your first proper views of the Meander River, looking a little empty during my visit, but it was the middle of summer. Although the river levels were a bit low, there was no shortage of streams flowing down the hill, usually surrounded by mossy rocks.
This is where things start to get really interesting, with the scenery stepping up a notch or two. Arriving at a new bridge that has been constructed over Staggs Creek, it replaces an old rickety wooden bridge. With a mix of metal and wood, I like the design and I'm sure it will stand the test of time over the coming decades. Upstream there are a set of small rapids, with a jumble of rocks leading downstream towards the Meander River. On the other side of the bridge I spotted something poking up from the undergrowth that turned out to be a Tall Potato Orchid, the first of a few I spotted as I hiked towards the falls. Negotiating a little rocky up and down, this was a cool little spot to stop and look around at the gnarly looking forest full of mosses and the first large ferns you'll see on this hike. Ascending a small set of stone steps, you reach the final turn-off for the Dixons Track and Wood Maynard Loop.
From here, things start to change, with more temperate rainforest and a lot more whimsy to the scenery. Finding a Strawberry Bracket fungi hiding away in the crevice of a fallen log, this was one of many cool fungi finds over the next few kilometres. With lots more greenery around thanks to all the ferns, and an increase in moss, this next section had a magical quality to it. Finding a series of stone steps leading past a girthy tree covered in moss, this was one of those places that I had to stop at thanks to a feeling I got while here. It doesn't happen often when I'm hiking but when I feel the energy, I slow down and just appreciate it. The photos never do the place justice but this was a special place that I thoroughly enjoyed walking through. The temperate rainforest section doesn't last long, as you start to ascend once again, reaching familiar looking forest.
Following the contours between the hill to your left and the Meander River on your right, at times there is just a narrow strip of trail. This produces some nice views as the combination of overhanging branches, boulders and dead straight trunks was spot on. With occasional views down to the river, you continue along and reach a flatter patch of ground, where you walk through what I associated with feeling like Endor from Star Wars. The semi-open forest of green and white coloured tree trunks, with the light filtering through the bright green canopy was pretty cool and felt much different to the first part of the hike. Rising up and over another set of stone stairs, at times it almost felt like you weren't on a continual climb at all. Expecting to see an Ewok jumping out from behind a boulder or fallen tree, I kept my wits about me as I descended into a little valley.
A brief return to the large ferns was quickly over, and this started the steeper climb leading to the falls. Having enjoyed relatively easy gradients of around 10% so far, it was going to ramp up to average around 20%, peaking at much greater than that. More stone steps help out with the climbing, with a mix of straightforward steps and a jumble of Cirith Ungol style trail. Here I met a fellow hiker and we had a chat about the trail and how long I had to go. I knew from my research that it was roughly 10km but the trail head suggested it was more like 7-8km. The man confirmed it was 10km and I still had a bit of climbing to go, with a smile on his face. He wasn't wrong, but having climbed Cradle Mountain the day before, the legs were feeling good. We said our goodbyes and I continued along my merry way, ascending higher and higher through scenery that was still impressive.
Getting the heart rate up as I stepped up and up the side of the hill, it was a challenge but a fun one. Reaching a series of mossy boulders, I looked down and saw a familiar plant. A colony of Greenhoods were loving life here, and these little beauties are ones I love seeing back in Western Australia, even if they are one of the more frustrating plants to identify the correct species. Typically with orchids and small flora like this, once you see one, more magically appear, and as I hiked along there were lots on the edge of the trail. Getting stuck back into the climbing, it was starting to warm up now it was past midday. Now into alpine territory, it didn't feel like it with the dense forest continuing, and gaps in the canopy revealing large peaks in the distance. Crossing over more creeks and streams running down from the Central Highlands, little wooden bridges make this a bit easier.
Wondering when the climbing would ease off, the answer was it wasn't, but a change in scenery was just around the corner. Providing some hope, I could see up and to my left was what looked like a scree field of decent sized boulders. The trail kind of scoots below the boulder field but you can see it through the now noticeably sparser tree covering. Feeling like the end was near, this would be the last little stretch of climbing before reaching a flatter section leading towards the lower falls. It was the steepest part of the entire trail up to this point, but with views looking ahead to Meander Falls, it was nice to know the end was close. With one last burst of effort, I reached the flat section and it was a return to dense forest. Forming a little tunnel through the thick vegetation, the trail was a fun mix of nice scenery and rock hopping to reach the rocky area that provides views looking at the two tiers of the waterfall.
Relieved to have reached the end, I was hoping that there was a better viewpoint of the falls. Hearing voices ahead, I spotted a trail marker leading up the hill. Dropping my pack at the rocky lookout, I had a swig of water and grabbed my camera for the climb up to where I assumed there were better views of the falls. After a short stint in the forest, I arrived at a rock wall and had to take my time to figure out the next move. The voices were a good indicator of where to go and this next section is by far the steepest part of the trail, if you choose to continue up to this point. It's a narrow climb through the vegetation but the wildflowers up here were the best I'd seen on the hike so far. Seeing some Mountain Rocket, Golden Shaggy Pea and Asthma Bush, this was alright with me. I finally reached the owners of the voices, a family with young boys, who were enjoying the thrill of this climb, mum not so much.
At a pinch point of narrow and steep trail I stopped and waited for them all to pass, talking with the dad and boys about the trail, and the epic views looking down the valley and across to Meander Crag. Now past the family, it wasn't long until I reached the middle falls, where there is a rocky pool where the upper falls plunge down the edge of the cliff face. It was a pretty awe-inspiring place to be, with the spectacle of the falls leading up the imposing rock face, and in the opposite direction, sweeping vistas looking across the Meander River Valley from where you've just come. Getting the upper falls in one shot proved difficult, along with the bright lighting looking up at the top, so I instead decided on a series of closer angles, focusing on where it flowed into the pool. With the place all to myself, this was a great turnaround point for the hike.
Hoping to see a platypus in the water, I'm not sure there would be enough food up here to support one, plus the challenge of getting up here may be too much to expect. With many photos in the bag, I explored the edge of the cliff, getting close but not too close. The views looking across the valley were spectacular, with a natural amphitheatre forming at the base of some pretty wild country to the west. My imagination was working overtime thinking about the terrain leading across to the Walls of Jerusalem, more so during the writing of this post and pouring over the maps of this area. With a couple of other hikes to get to this afternoon, I pried myself away from the pool, and began the descent back towards my pack. At this point, I should have investigated walking down the hill to the edge of the Meander River where the lower falls flow into the river but for the life of me I cannot remember why I didn't.
Heading back the way I came, I passed a few more groups heading the other way, and I was enjoying the fact I was heading downhill now. Keeping an eye out for anything I missed on the way up, I always enjoy seeing a trail from a different perspective, and this was no different. Savouring the excellent scenery, I soon caught up to the family I met at the upper falls. Passing the mum, I reached the dad and boys just as they turned off the trail and down towards a large pool in the river, where they were going to have a swim. The rest of the hike was enjoyable, as I made up some time and photographed sections that had better lighting than when I first passed them. Arriving back at the car park, that was a great hike that I'll fondly remember for a while. I think this will be one that I'll return to again, as the loop trail you can do taking in the Split Rock Track looks absolutely stunning, with a couple of waterfalls on the other side of the Meander River, along with lush temperate rainforest.
Final Thoughts – Meander Falls was always going to be apart of my hiking plans for this trip, and it was a great trail experience.
Tougher than what I thought it would be, this, as I said before, is essentially like climbing up a mountain but to the base of a waterfall instead. The trail up to the views of the upper falls provides some great views from a height of 1130m ASL, and if you have the confidence and ability then definitely check it out.
Not an easy hike but worth the effort if you're after a challenge and want to experience some classic Tasmanian scenery long the way.
If you've found this page or the website helpful and you want to show your support then consider making a small donation by visiting our Ko-fi page. You can give as little as a dollar with no sign-up required and everything will be put towards the website, creating new content and promoting the trail community.