Leliyn Falls Trail
Nitmiluk National Park
Directions - Located in the northern section of Nitmiluk National Park, from the centre of Katherine head north on the Stuart Highway for 41km until you reach the right turn for Edith Falls Road. Follow this for 19km until you reach the main car park. The trail starts at the southern end of the car park, near the cafe and gift shop.
The Hike - After a drive through of Litchfield National Park to explore a couple of trails I missed out on hiking on my first visit there, we finally headed to the main stop of our latest trip to the Northern Territory, Katherine. Spending just under a week here with Caris' family, I was looking forward to exploring Nitmiluk National Park, even if the opportunity to hike the Jatbula Trail would not be on the cards (bookings for the trail open in November the previous year and fill up fast).
Our first full day in Katherine would see us have a leisurely breakfast at the only place in town that was open, as many businesses had chosen to close down for the Katherine Show weekend, or had staffing issues due to Covid/sickness. Town was very busy that weekend with it also being the end of school holidays, so we decided to hit up the northern section of Nitmiluk and hike the Leliyn/Edith Falls Trail. Unfortunately we were down one member of the group as Hal had flown back to Melbourne before we arrived and that took a bit of the fun out of the holiday. In the afternoon we all made our way to the Leliyn Falls car park, meeting up with Caris' aunt, uncle and 93yo grandmother, before heading down to the edge of the lower falls to have a look around. Candy would be joining us on the hike while Grannam and Guy would head back to Katherine after having a look around. We ventured down to the bridge where the lower pool drains out and continues along the Edith River, spotting plenty of fish in the water.
The lower falls are off in the distance and a few people had swum over to sit on the rocks around them. It's a really impressive spot here with the wide cliff walls framing the lower pool and the waterfall nicely. With Grannam and Guy departing, Caris, Candy and myself started the popular Leliyn Falls Trail from here as I didn't want to backtrack to start my Garmin watch. One of two marked day walks in the area, the Leliyn Falls Trail is the easier option, being an achievable 3.4km, while the longer hike out to Sweetwater Pool on the Jatbula Trail is a 9km return trip. I had hoped to do this one while we were here but time wasn't on my side. Perhaps one day I'll book in to do the Jatbula and it will be a nice finish to the trip. Leaving the lush surrounds of the lower pool and Edith River, the Leliyn Falls Trail soon enters much a much drier landscape as it starts climbing up the first hill of the loop. It's quite the contrast and highlights the effect all the streams and rivers have on the vegetation in the northern part of Australia.
Slowly ascending and taking in the rugged beauty of the landscape, I was loving the bright yellow flowers of the Kapok that really stand out if you get the right angle and have the sky as the background. As we walked along, we spotted some that had developed into fruit already, something I don't recall seeing on previous hikes. The hill isn't too bad of a climb but being exposed does mean it can be draining in the heat of the day. The views more than make up for it as you gaze out over the national park towards distant hills. The rocky edge of the hill marks the end of the ascent and you enter a maze of small boulders, bigger trees and the first of a few wildflowers, including a round Wattle species. Here we ran into plenty of other hikers going in the opposite direction but for the most part it still felt pretty empty. Following the orange markers, we headed along the flatter plateau towards the Bemang Lookout, spotting plenty of White-breasted Woodswallows sitting in the branches of a dead tree.
Taking the side trail to the Bemang Lookout, I noticed quite a few yellow pea flowers starting to emerge on several bushes and managed to get a couple of shots of the more open examples. The side trail is only a 50m detour off the main trail and is well worth it thanks to the stunning views you get overlooking the middle pool and the upper pool, a place you'll visit a little further along the hike. The wide views of the middle pool and waterfalls coming down from the upper pool was truly magnificent and is a real highlight of this walk. Using my zoom lens I was able to capture the upper pool area, with all the people looking like little ants as they moved about. Keen to move on and explore the area between here and the upper pool, we headed back to the main trail and continued on. The trail from here winds its way through the grassy plateau and it isn't long before you start getting some amazing views looking straight down the middle pool to where it flows down into the lower pool.
Just before you start to descend there is a small fenced lookout that provides some nice views looking directly down at the waterfalls cascading over the edge of the cliffs leading down from the upper pool. While you don't get to see the full might of the waterfall, I had fun shooting the bottom of the falls where the water hits the rocky platform at the base. This spot also provides the best views looking down middle pool and the whole area looks super pretty. Heading downhill on a bit of a rocky scramble, the upper pool area soon comes into view and I was excited to stop and have a break here. As we were making our way down, I spotted a red dragonfly but couldn't get a clear shot of it. Caris assured me there would be plenty down below and sure enough, when we arrived at the base of the steps, one landed on a rounded rock and I managed to get the shot I was after. Walking along the edge of the rocks, there are two metal bridges that take you over the water and safely to the other side where the trail continues.
I wanted to explore the area closer to the falls to get more photos so we made our way along a little rocky island that in the dry season will provide access all the way across the upper pool. There were plenty of people here having a swim, lounging on the warm rocks and splashing about under the waterfall. This was an idyllic spot to experience with everything you would picture about an outback swimming hole. Open space, wide swimming areas, a waterfall and rugged cliffs. I can see why this is a popular spot and having a swim is a nice way to break up the loop trail. I did have my towel and bathers with me but had my eye on a swim back down at the lower pool when we finished. Exploring the rocks and trying to find different angles to shoot the pool and waterfalls, I was in my element bouncing from one rock to another. I was really happy to spot another Drosera species hidden away next to the pool and I couldn't resist taking a photo or two.
Joining back up with Caris and Candy, we navigated our way over the metal bridges and to the western side of the pool, where the loop trail continues on. It's not entirely obvious where it goes but once you spot the staircase leading out of the valley then it all clicks into place. Climbing out of the upper pool area, there are some nice views looking back down towards the waterfall and surrounding area. Walking up the stairs to the Leliyn Lookout, it was obvious that this area had recently undergone a prescribed burn as either side of the trail was looking a bit blackened. With the flammable grasses being a serious fire threat throughout the year and with the burning done by hand, the prescribed burn program in the NT looks to be done properly so walking through these scorched areas doesn't bother me as much as it does in WA. The Leliyn Lookout is another short detour off the main trail and is worth checking out as it provides great views looking down towards the lower pool and from here I could see the bridge that takes you over the Edith River. After enjoying a bit of a break here, we moved on and walked towards where the Jatbula Trail joins the Leliyn Trail and both head down to the finishing point.
The woodlands through here continued to be burnt but with the canopies still looking super green, it was pleasant walking. Caris spotted a Rainbow Bee Eater but by the time I had walked under the branch it was on to get the better lighting, it had flown off. The descent down towards the car park and main visitor area was nice enough thanks to the views looking off into the distance but the rocky path had a sameness to it with little vegetation growing in the boulder field lining the trail. Arriving at the shop, Caris treated herself to an ice cream and we wandered down to the lower pool for a bit of afternoon relaxation. Candy and I got in the water for a swim and it was a refreshing experience after a warm hike. I swam around the little island in front of one of the access points and really noticed the difference swimming in fresh water compared to salt water as it requires much more effort to stay afloat. There are fresh water crocodiles here but from everything we were told throughout our stay in Katherine, they will only bother you if you get right up close to them. Ending my swim, I joined everyone else and we sat there soaking in the great views and enjoyed the peaceful ambiance.
Final Thoughts – A popular hike for good reason, the Leliyn Falls Trail takes you to some amazing spots and with a couple of places to swim, it's a great half day adventure.
While visiting on show weekend and during school holidays wasn't the smartest idea, it wasn't too overcrowded to affect the experience. There is plenty of room at both the upper pool and lower pool to accommodate everyone but if you can, I'd suggest avoiding the peak July period of school holidays.
A lovely introduction to Nitmiluk National Park and it whet my appetite for more adventures in the south part of the park.
Get out there and experience it!
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