Le GRand Coastal Trail
Cape Le Grand National Park
Directions - Located east of Esperance in Cape Le Grand National Park, you can start the Le Grand Coastal Trail from either end but for what I've written about here (and would recommend as the direction to hike it), the start point is at Rossiter Bay. From Esperance, drive east along Fisheries Road until you come to the Merivale Road turn. Continue along Merivale Road, turning right at Cape Le Grand Road, entering the park and then turning left at Lucky Bay Road. Drive past the Lucky Bay Campground and drive to the end, where you'll reach Rossiter Bay. There is a small car park to your right, and the trail head is located a short walk to the south. The end of the trail is at Le Grand Beach, which is located at the end of Cape Le Grand Road.
The Hike - The Le Grand Coastal Trail is one that I've been looking forward to hiking for years, and after a few visits to Cape Le Grand National Park in the past, the hiking gods eventually allowed me to experience this trail in all its glory. The last time I was here in 2020, I had this one on the itinerary for the final day of a three week road trip, but I didn't put my camera away during a torrential downpour on the Tagon Coastal Trail, and it threw up all kinds of error messages before dying. I'd like to say that I learnt my lesson that day but it's happened since then, and may or may not happen again.
Returning in 2024 on another epic three week road trip, this time for my latest book (click here to purchase), I had penciled in the Le Grand Coastal Trail as the final hike of the trip. Before I continue any further, this is one of my longest posts for good reason, so now might be a good time if you plan on reading the whole thing to brew a tea or coffee, and settle into a comfy chair. I'll also point out early the hilarity of the translation for this trail being the The Grand Coastal Trail, just as The Los Angeles Angels baseball team translates to the the angels angels. I digress though. Having enjoyed a busy yet fruitful road trip so far, I was going to get some stunning weather in Esperance to finish the journey, and that suited me just fine for showcasing this amazing trail in the best possible conditions. Camping at Lucky Bay, I was up early to hike Frenchman Peak, before driving out to Le Grand Beach to drop off my mountain bike, as a means of returning back to the start.
Driving back to Rossiter Bay, this was my first time visiting this part of the park, and it was an understatement to say I was excited to be finally hiking this trail. Giving myself about eight hours of sunlight to complete the trail and ride back to the start to pick-up my car, with the way I walk these days, stopping to photograph every flower, insect or bird I see, this would be just enough time. After walking out to the beach at Rossiter Bay, I found the trail head and was staring at the gradual uphill that welcomes you to proceedings. The old vehicle track that is starting to grow over quite nicely average just under a ten percent gradient, so not too difficult but steep enough you notice it. This was one of the most prolific sections for wildflowers, and although I was maybe 2-3 weeks too late for the peak of the season, there was still a lot to find along here including Sand Wattle Myrtle, Woolly Patersonia, and Crab Claws to name a few. Ahead were the granite boulders at the top of the climb, the start of some truly stunning scenery that lasts the entire hike.
Looking back, the views across Rossiter Bay were gorgeous, and remembering to turn around and appreciate the views in the opposite direction is something I had to keep prompting myself to do. Normally on trails I tend to only include photographs of the direction you are hiking but for this trail, the quality and diversity of scenery meant I made an exception every now and then. Stopping frequently to photograph the dozens of different wildflowers on display, I had picked up an unwelcome passenger that was making life a bit painful. Being later in spring, the March Flies were out, and despite wearing my UV sleeves, they didn't seem to be phased, and were biting me through the fabric, causing a sharp pain every time. Battling on and doing my best to shoo them away, I was soon passing the smaller WA Christmas Trees (or Moodja to the Noongar people), and much closer to the large granite boulders to the right of the trail.
These imposing boulders provide a fun feature to photograph, with the extreme cracking in one of them very similar to what you'll see at the top of the granite climb on Frenchman Peak. You don't get super close to them, instead admiring from a distance, but they do mark the point where you leave the relatively wide track behind and climb up onto some bare granite. The transition is really sudden, as you don't really see the granite until right before you step onto it. The exposed rock brings new and more wonderful things to see, with the lighting quick flashes running across the golden surface. There be dragons lurking here, with well camouflaged Ornate Crevice Dragons darting around in the warmth of the rock. Moving as slow as I could to get closer to them without disturbing them, I managed to get a few good shots of these medium sized lizards, before they bolted away to safer ground.
Rising up to the top of the first section of granite, you've climbed about 110m vertically from the starting point, and you get your first views overlooking the iconic Lucky Bay. Stepping off the granite, you join a section of single trail that leads you across a flat section of the hill, with the views continuing to be excellent. You do pass through some thicker vegetation, and here I was spotting plenty of new wildflower species including Barrel Coneflower, Pink Starflower and the wiggly tubes of Heath Leschenaultia. Walking between more WA Christmas Trees, this would be a sight to see in November and December when they start flowering in a vibrant yellow. The thicker vegetation was a brief respite from the warm spring day I was experiencing, but it didn't last long as the trail heads up and over another granite platform, before joining more single trail through the low heath.
With Mississippi Hill appearing in the distance, the trail looks as if it's going to take you up and over the granite dome. As you get closer, it becomes obvious this isn't going to happen, instead going over the last of the exposed rock for the time being. Switching my gaze between the beautiful views of Lucky Bay and the hills beyond, and the wildflowers lining the trail, this was turning out to be an excellent start to the premier trail in Cape Le Grand National Park. As I reached near the base of Mississippi Hill, I hit unexpected traffic in the form of Heath Monitor slowly walking along the trail. I'm not one to comment given how slow I walk sometimes but this Sunday driver wasn't keen on letting anyone through. I was patient, took some photos and tried my best to communicate that I would like to pass but it kept looking back to see if I was still there. Eventually it made a left turn off the trail, and I continued on my merry way.
Passing along the base of Mississippi Hill, it was a sight to behold looking up at the exposed face, and wondering what the views might be like from the top. More than happy with where the trail was taking me, the views ahead were just as captivating, with the turquoise waters of Lucky Bay calling me. Reaching a series of rounded boulders that have been weathered over time to form such a shape, you've got a 100m descent to negotiate before you reach the pure white shores of one of the best beaches in Australia. The wildflowers continued to be excellent, with new species like Showy Banksia and the Red Kangaroo Paw making an appearance. As you start to descend, the full width of the bay starts to open up, and you can see the headland and subsequent islands to your right for the first time. I took a moment here to stop and just soak it all in, the first of many times over the course of the day, because I wanted to fully appreciate the experience outside of taking a million photos for the website.
Heading down the hill, there is quite a bit of erosion through here, with large channels in sections that require you to step down into the middle and awkwardly step along the curves caused by the erosion. A small price to pay for the excellent hiking experience, and soon I had reached a wooden staircase leading down to the first bit of beach walking for the day. This is such a magical spot, with the vibrancy of the colours so much more obvious than looking down from the top of the hill. The combination of bright blue skies, the dazzling turquoise of the shallows, bright white of the beach, and the orange lichen on the rocks was just *chefs kiss*. The photo looking down the stairs and across the water was an immediate lock for me as the cover shot of my South Coast book, and my publisher agreed straight away. Seeing my first people since starting the trail, the boardwalk turned out to be a popular spot as I passed through. I loved seeing the "Hike Cape Le Grand" archway, a fun feature for the trail, and something that makes for a great photo.
Stepping out onto Lucky Bay Beach, the next 2.7 kilometres sees you walk along the hard white sands, with postcard perfect scenery for company. There was a bit of cloud around today but it was mostly to the south, meaning the sun was still shining bright, and providing excellent photos for my walk along the beach. Typically you'll be able to find a decent amount of hard sand to walk on, and the beach sections are not the slog that they are on some other coastal walks (looking at you Deepdene Beach). While I hadn't been moving at a slow pace, a bit over 3kmph, this next section allowed me to put the afterburners on, given there were no wildflowers to photograph, and the scenery while extremely pretty, didn't really change much. Being a Thursday outside of school holidays, I didn't expect Lucky Bay to be as busy as it was. There were people out walking the length of the beach like I was, but also a lot of vehicles driving up and down the beach.
I have mixed feelings on this, as I've driven on Lucky Bay Beach once before for the novelty of it, but as a walker, the noise and mostly diesel fumes don't make for a pleasant experience. Tending to look to the left, and across the beautiful azure waters, I was still taking a lot of photos as there was always a subtle change in the lighting or viewpoint as I continued along the beach. It didn't take long before I was rounding the bay and was close to the end of the beach. Near to the vehicle access point to the beach I had a good chuckle, as I spotted a gentleman walking around his Mercedes sedan with his phone, doing a little photo shoot of his car, a remarkable feat given how chewed up and boggy the sand can get at some of the beach entries. Reaching the end of the beach, I admired the holey headland before entering the thickets of Peppermints that lead you through the edge of Lucky Bay Campground. Joining the road, you follow it up the hill and past all the campsites, eventually continuing along a wide path as it takes you south towards the next section.
Leaving the hustle and bustle of the campsite behind, it doesn't take long before you can't see it anymore, as you continue along the wide path towards the intersection leading to Thistle Cove. The trail is broken up into many of these smaller sections, which means you can walk shorter distances if the full 22km isn't your cup of tea. There are information boards marking each change, with the Lucky Bay to Thistle Cove one located as you take the right turn to leave the views of Lucky Bay behind. Almost immediately after rising up the small hill leading away from Lucky Bay, you are introduced to a completely different world. Gone is the sweeping bay of white sands and turquoise waters, instead replaced with rocky headlands that look much more treacherous. The view looking down the next staircase was reminiscent of a mini Bald Head, another of WA's great day hikes. After the long beach section, it was nice to be back amongst the coastal heath, because that meant more wildflowers.
I won't list them from now on but if you click on the photo (or scroll over it if you're viewing on a PC), then the common name and Latin name will appear. After a brief downhill section, the trail heads to the right and you continue up a series of wooden steps that takes you up to the exposed rock that will become a familiar surface the further you hike. There are some precariously placed boulders to your left that look like they might topple over at any second but have probably been there for tens of thousands of years. Be sure to look back through here, as the views get better and better, overlooking the coastline, where you'll see even bigger rocky formations, along with small islands dotted just off the coast. Reaching the rocky platform, follow the cairns and wooden posts, as they guide you towards the Direction Finder plaque bolted to a little mound of rocks. Back from the old CALM days, I did enjoy their old slogan being "Caring...Naturally", something a bit lacking from the modern DBCA in my opinion.
This point also marks the first time that Thistle Cove comes into view, and it brought back some great memories. One of my favourite photos from a 2018 trip, that was my first to Cape Le Grand, was the iconic view you get as you walk from the car park down to the beach at Thistle Cove. While the view from up here isn't the same, the shape of Boulder Hill in the distance is a unique feature of the landscape that looks roughly the same. Excited to get down there and experience the magic once again, I was also wanting to enjoy the new section of walking that would see me connect up all the blanks between Lucky Bay and Thistle Cove. The walking is fairly straight forward, with the cairns and poles easy to spot, I just had to remind myself to watch my step, as often I would be mesmerised by the view and forget to look where I was going on the uneven surface. As you get closer to the car park, the views really open up, with the wide bay of Thistle Cove providing multiple different points of interest, Boulder Hill in the distance, along with Frenchman Peak and the small lake nestled behind the beach of Thistle Cove.
Arriving at the car park, I wasn't quite sure what route the trail took from here but I did want to see Whistling Rock up close. A narrow boulder that reaches skyward, if there is a slight breeze blowing, you can hear a whistling sound coming off the rock. A cool little acoustic effect, it's just another fun feature of this trail. From Whistling Rock, I looked down towards the water and figured there would be a way around the rocks to get to the beach entry (the trail officially goes through the car park to the beach). This turned out to be a good decision, as there are some great photo opportunities along here thanks to the contrast of the bright orange of the rocks, the different shades of blue of the water, and Boulder Hill in the background. There were a few people gathered around this spot looking across the bay, and I figured there must have been something specific they were looking at. Enquiring with one of them, they pointed out a dark shape in the distance that turned out to be a Southern Right Whale mother with its young calf. They were towards the middle of the bay where it was darker but I was hoping for some clearer shots as I hiked along the beach.
After spotting another dragon dancing on the rocks, I followed the curve of the rocks towards the beach entry, spotting a man having a fish below me. Reaching the white sands, it was nice to step out onto Thistle Cove again, and get that same view I loved the first time here. While Lucky Bay had been full of cars and people, it was lovely to have a deserted stretch of beach to myself. Normally on beach walks I love to do a bit of beach combing but the pristine sands of Cape Le Grand hide no secrets. The most I saw were washed up jellyfish, and the carcass of a dead fish, that turned out to be a Deepwater Burrfish. I scanned the waters to my left as I rounded the cove, and sure enough, the Southern Right Whale popped above water every now and then. Even with my zoom lens it was hard to get a good photo, but I managed to get a few where it's noticeably out of the water. This brought a big smile to my face, and what a fortuitous time to have been passing by, just as the mother and calf had pulled in to have a rest.
Continuing along the beach, from here until the slopes of Mount Le Grand would be all new to me, and I was looking forward to seeing if the rest of the hike maintained the already high standard I had experienced so far. Spotting a smaller series of rocks at the end of the beach, my gaze started searching for how to get up and over them, before realising the trail exited into the coastal scrub to the right. Climbing off the beach, new species of wildflowers appeared, as the sandy track soon joined up to a granite platform. Leading down to a smaller beach, this felt like a place the Famous Five would visit on one of their adventures catching pirates or smugglers. I was simply here to enjoy the walk, and was soon on the beach staring at the massive rocky slope ahead of me trying to figure out if I needed to scale it or not. Before then, I spotted a couple of birds, the first being a White-bellied Sea Eagle soaring gracefully above the headland, and the second was an Australasian Great Cormorant that was on a rock drying its wings after a fishing trip.
This spot seemed like the perfect place to have a picnic, and given the effort to walk here, you might well have it to yourself. Given not many people probably read up to this point, the chances of it becoming a popular place are next to nothing. I would have loved to stay but my walk continued on, with the imposing slopes ahead not the direction I needed to go. Once you exit the beach, the white poles to your right clearly show the way, as you hug the edge of the slope to an area where it's less steep. Hoping that I would climb high enough that the outline of the whales would be a lot clearer, unfortunately I was too far away to get a decent photo, but you can just about make out the shape of these ocean wanderers. Leaving the views of Thistle Cove behind, I followed the series of poles and cairns as the trail takes the path of least resistance (or gradient) towards the next cove. At the top of the sharp 50m rise, you get views of the open ocean to your left, and as you start the descent, lovely scenes looking down the bare rock as it plunges into the water below.
It looks as if the trail takes you right into the water, or along the base of the headland, which would seem pretty dangerous during adverse weather. I remember my podcast partner saying there was a tricky bit here where you needed to judge the waves rolling in as you stepped between rocky sections, so perhaps I was in for some fun. Descending down, the path becomes obvious, as you end up well away from the water on this calm day, but I imagine when the rocks are wet, you'd need to exercise caution through here. Eventually you do reach the edge of the water, and the trail markers disappear, leaving you to make an educated guess as to what way to go. There is some rock hopping through here, jumping between crevices caused by the waves crashing and water receding over and over again. Stopping just before the little sandy beach, I noticed movement in the water and sure enough, a school of Zebra Fish were living in the shallows, darting around as the water flushed in and out.
Crossing the beach and to the rocks on the other side, the way is not clear but once I was a bit higher, I found the path heading into the thick vegetation. Looking back at this unnamed cove provided some better photos, and was just one of many great spots to stand and admire the scenery. Ahead of you is a 110m climb up, initially through the coastal heath but then joining what is now a familiar terrain, exposed rock. Your legs should be used to the climbing by now, and being out in the open, there is plenty of opportunity to stop and take in the view of the boulder strewn hills to your right. Reaching the top of the climb, you get to see Frenchman Peak again, along with some of the best views looking out over the ocean, thanks to the numerous islands close to the coast. This stretch of coastline near Cape Le Grand and Esperance is home to the Archipelago of the Recherche, a series of over 100 islands and a thousand different rocky protrusions that is completely different to what you'll see anywhere else on the South Coast of WA. I loved photographing this scene looking to the south west, and with the lighting the way it was, it looked amazing in person.
After catching my breath at the summit, I began the descent down to the first of two beaches, Little Hellfire Bay. Both Little Hellfire Bay and the larger Hellfire Bay can be seen as you descend the exposed rocky slope, and after following the series of poles set into rocky cairns, you are soon staring at the beach at Little Hellfire Bay. Here I made a mistake and continued along the beach, thinking there would be an exit at the end, not noticing the wooden sign hidden to my right. I passed a couple enjoying the sunshine, reaching a small creek that flows into the bay. I think many people have made this same mistake, as there are goat tracks leading up the hill at the end, and quite possibly the remains of a trail that perhaps once existed, as I found some wooden steps. Realising that perhaps the trail would be a little clearer, I doubled back and sure enough, there was the wooden sign right next to where the rocky slope meets the beach. This was another stunning beach, and one that can be accessed from the main car park via the trail I was about to take. Now off the beach, I was glad to be in some shade, as the trail passes through the thickest piece of vegetation along the entire route.
It doesn't last long, as you soon ascend up the hill and the knee high coastal heath returns. It was nice while it lasted but the consolation prize was a lovely stand of Showy Banksia, one of my favourite species thanks to the shape and patterns of their flowers. It's only a small hill and soon you are descending down towards the car park for Hellfire Bay. It was busy here, with a full car park, and lots of people about. I took a short break under the gazebo to beverage up, and reapply my sunscreen before the last section leading towards Le Grand Beach. Stepping out onto the beach at Hellfire Bay, the business just disappeared, as the empty sands ahead beckoned me on. It's a true luxury at this stage to say it was just another beautiful beach, proof that west is best when it comes to having the best beaches in Australia (and arguably the world). Meandering along the beach and loving being here, the 750m stretch of beach doesn't feel very long, and soon I was standing at the base of the headland, once again wondering if I was going to have to scale the steep slopes. The answer is sort of, with the exit off the beach being to your right, initially through coastal scrub but then joining the exposed rock.
This is one of the steepest climbs of the whole trail but provides some of the best views if you stop to look back at Hellfire Bay. Given the sun was well on its way to setting in the west, the view looking east across Hellfire Bay meant the lighting was just right. Can you ever get sick of white beaches, rocky headlands and turquoise water? My experiment todays suggest not. At the top of the climb you leave the epic views behind and start walking towards the open expanse of greenery ahead, leading towards the slopes of Mount Le Grand. On the home stretch now, the walking for the next couple of kilometres sees you switch between thicker coastal scrub and rocky platforms, with the views shifting from the ocean to the interior of the park. Now staring into the setting sun, the photos looking down the trail aren't as magnificent as the morning but that's alright. The walking is still enjoyable as you negotiate the various ups and downs of the terrain, spotting wildflowers hiding away in the undergrowth. Reaching the lower slopes of Mount Le Grand, this rounded peak is the highest point in the park, sitting at 345m ASL.
I climbed it back in 2020, starting at the Le Grand Beach end of the trail, following it until I found a clear point to descend straight up the rock face. Given I still had to finish this hike, and bike back to the start at Rossiter Bay, I wouldn't be taking the optional side trip up to the summit today, content with rounding the lower slopes. Climbing up to join the lower contours of Mount Le Grand, you leave the coastal heath behind, and once again hike along long section of exposed rock. Linking up the markers, I was looking up to the summit on my left, trying to remember the point I climbed up on my last visit, but it all looked the same. In the warmth of the afternoon sun, I came across my first danger noodle of the day, a Crowned Snake having a sunbake on the radiant rock. I took some photos and moved around it, letting it sun itself in peace, while I ventured towards the finish. The trail was starting to look more familiar as I caught sight of the unnamed peak to the west of Mount Le Grand. Coming across a seasonal stream running across a rocky platform, complete with little boulders, this was one of my favourite scenes from my 2020 hike. Leaving the rocky platform behind, you enter thick vegetation as you negotiate the final climb of the trail, a small 50m ascent that feels much tougher with tired legs underneath.
At least it was mostly shaded, until you pop out of the heath and are presented with better views of Le Grand Beach in the distance. The end was nigh, and I had a small party of well wishers appear ahead, with some kangaroos keeping a watching eye on me from the scrub before bounding away. Starting to descend, the end is within reach as you see Le Grand Beach extend out into the distance. There is a viewing platform for those staying at the campsite to get better views of the beach, but I soldiered on, keen to get on my bike and back to my tent site with enough time to setup my tent and make dinner. Stepping onto the flats near the beach, I was done with the official trail, a thoroughly enjoyable experience that I immediately put right up there as one of the best I've ever done. I paid a visit to Le Grand Beach, before unlocking my bike from a picnic area, and setting off towards Rossiter Bay. I wasn't looking forward to the ride, as it was all on the relatively narrow roads through the park, with lots of blind crests and corners. Thankfully the only traffic I saw was going the other way, and it ended up being a fun experience riding through the emptiness of the park as the sun set. The last section of corrugated road to Rossiter Bay wasn't as fun, but I made it to my car with enough light to get back to Lucky Bay and enjoy a well earned dinner as the light faded into night.
Final Thoughts – In my humble opinion, the Le Grand Coastal Trail is simply the best day hike in Western Australia.
From start to finish, there is no section that isn't outstanding in terms of the quality of the scenery, or the sheer level of enjoyment you feel while hiking it.
It would be a great hike if it only visited one of the numerous beaches along the way, but to have four outstanding stretches of pristine white sand to enjoy (Lucky Bay, Thistle Cove, Little Hellfire Bay & Hellfire Bay), is just a whole different level of quality.
While the 22km length may put some people off, it's setup in such a way that you can pick and choose sections if you don't have the time or fitness to complete the whole thing in one go.
The only thing you could say against it, and it's minor, is that as a solo traveler, you do need a bike or the kindness of strangers to be able to get back to the start point but if that's my only gripe, then I'm more than happy to accept those terms.
White sandy beaches that are the envy of the world, biodiversity that matches that, and a challenging hike that provides epic scenery, what more could you ask for? The Le Grand Coastal Trail lived up to the hype and it will be one of my favourite hikes forever.
Get out there and experience it!
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