Jedda's Rock via Windolf Walk
Nitmiluk National Park
Directions - Located in the southern section of Nitmiluk National Park, from the centre of Katherine head north on Giles Street as it becomes Gorge Road and follow this for 28km. There is only one main road to the Nitmiluk Visitor Centre and it is well signed so you can't miss it. There is plenty of parking but it does fill up during the peak period around July school holidays. The walk starts from outside the Visitor Centre where you will find a large information board detailing the Southern Walks in Nitmiluk.
The Hike - With many hike options to choose from in the southern section of Nitmiluk National Park, I had one last location I really wanted to check out before our time in Katherine came to an end. Having completed Butterfly Gorge, one of the other longer day walks, I had my gaze set upon the nearby Pat's Lookout, Southern Rockhole and Jedda's Rock for my last day hike in the area. Getting up early to avoid the heat, I ventured along the road towards Nitmiluk for the final time and soaked in what is a pleasant drive in the pre-dawn light.
Arriving at the impressive Visitor Centre, the car park was relatively empty compared to the bun fight it becomes when the regular tourist is up and about. There were a few people wandering about as I made my way to the entrance to start my Garmin and then backtrack along the trail that leads to the Southern Walks. I decided against the route that takes you along the Baruwei Loop, as I had previously walked that as I headed out to Butterfly Gorge. The more direct path that runs parallel to Gorge Road I knew wasn't nearly as nice but it was quicker and I could just put on the jets and get it over with. The choose your own adventure style of trail network out here is different and while not my particular cup of tea, I can see why it was been chosen. It meant that the first 2.2km of the hike was on paths that I'd walked before, which would have been fine but half of that is on what could be called not very interesting trail.
A disadvantage of starting early was the morning light coming from the east and that is eventually the direction you would be facing. It meant the cliffs above the visitor centre were in shadow and once I reached the climb, I was shooting right into the rising sun. It did create some interesting lighting effects as I passed a section of palms and taller trees. Not far up the path was the junction with the Baruwei Loop and access to the Southern Walks. I enjoy this spot as you rise up over the hill and are presented with a seemingly never-ending expanse of national park with distant gorges providing a world of opportunity. Down the hill and around the corner is the first choose your own adventure decision tree and for me, the start of all new terrain as I turned to page 397 and followed the Windolf Walk towards Pat's Lookout.
Taking the left turn at the small water tank, I was curious to see what was to be found along this path, compared to the Yambi Walk that takes you to Butterfly Gorge. Following the compact single trail as it weaves through the grasses and rock formations of this stunning landscape, I was immediately impressed with what was out here. It shouldn't have been surprising given the quality of the Yambi Walk but you never never know if you never never go (fellow 90s kids will understand). Spotting some Yellow Kapok early on, I always enjoy photographing these against the bright blue of a clear sky. The rock formations through here provided more photographic opportunities with balancing boulders and gently sloping platforms allowing for a bit of variety to the galleries. It was nice to see both the regular Turkey Bush (Calytrix exstipulata) and White Turkeybush (Calytrix brownii), a variety that I don't believe I had seen on my NT travels before.
I was enjoying that the Windolf Walk seemed to have a much more enclosed feeling to it thanks to the narrower path and tree coverage along the way. Add in some cool rock formations, including a curved wall leading to a footbridge and it was quite the experience. Shooting it all was still a bit of a challenge so it was just a case of pointing the camera at the right angles and occasionally having to shoot in the direction I had just walked, something I don't like doing too much. The path winds a lot more as it slots through various rocky outcrops and this means you're constantly being presented with a new viewpoint. After about two kilometres you reach a shelter that provide a respite from the sun, along with being a service point for the mountain bike trails that have been built throughout the park. This is the decision point for several trails with diverging paths for the Southern Rockhole, Pat's Lookout, Bamjon and Jedda's Rock via the Waleka Walk (that also links back to the entrance to Butterfly Gorge).
After a short break and hydration stop, I decided to check out Pat's Lookout first before heading out to Jedda's Rock. Following the wooden sign, it's a short side trip from the shelter and soon I was standing on the rocky platform that is one of the more beautiful spots found along the walking tracks in the park. Helping the photos, the main viewpoint looks north-west so lighting wasn't so much of an issue compared to the walk out and as such, Pat's Lookout provides the image used in the banner for this page. Settling myself on the rocky platform, I took some time to appreciate the stunning views overlooking the first gorge of the Katherine River (I believe there are 13 in total). One of the frequent boats that shuffles tourists between the first and second gorges was making its way back to the main jetty and provided a nice feature for one of my photos. I was enjoying picking out the details here like the cliff faces in the distance, the red flowers of the Rock Grevillea or the Palm Trees down by the river.
An older couple that I had passed on my out here soon joined me at the lookout so I thought it would be kind to let them enjoy a moment alone. Gathering my pack, I headed back to the shelter and found the wooden sign pointing me along the Waleka Walk towards Jedda's Rock. Having seen this giant formation from the water below on a boat tour and then on a kayak, I was keen to see what the views were like from the top. Following the trail revealed more pleasant scenery as it snakes near the edge of the cliffs, occasionally providing glimpses of what's below. One interesting feature was a rock platform in the shape of a ship's prow, complete with a rock slab bench, Flinstones style. The real treat along this section was the platform on the edge of a cliff with views looking down to the boat ramps between the first two gorges. Navigating the final section that looks more catered towards the mountain bikers thanks to the switchbacks and berms, I eventually reached the sign for Jedda's Rock and was excited to see what views were on offer.
Named after the 1955 film, Jedda, that was filmed here, as we learned on the boat tour earlier in the week, it was a significant film for a couple of reasons. It was the first movie to feature two indigenous actors in leading roles (Robert Tudawali and Ngarla Kunoth) and the first colour feature shot in Australia. I did see a DVD copy for sale when we visited Mataranka and I regret not buying it. Back to the rock, there is a small rocky platform that serves as a viewing area over the impressive gorges that have been carved out over the millennia. Be careful as there isn't anything stopping you if you slip and the loose rocks could give way at any time (this was the only area we couldn't kayak near due to the injury risk from falling rocks). The views in person were stunning but facing to the east meant the photos were compromised. I've tried to recover them as much as possible but you'll just have to visit yourself to appreciate the true majesty. I spotted a few kayakers down below heading through Second Gorge towards Third Gorge and remembered back to a few days prior when I was down there.
Hearing a bird noise in a nearby tree, I managed to locate it and get a couple of photos. Consulting my Field Guide to the Northern Territory book I had picked up on this trip, it turned out to be a Mistletoe Bird. I watched it for a while before leaving Jedda's Rock, returning to the junction leading back to Pat's Lookout via a loop trail. The little gorge next to Jedda's Rock was quite a sight and added to what had already been a pretty scenic walk. Arriving back at the shelter, I decided to check out Pat's Lookout one last time as I wasn't sure if or when I would be back. While gazing out over the impressive views, I decided that I had enough time to head to the Southern Rockhole, something that originally wasn't on my plan for this hike. This turned out to be an excellent decision, as soon as I turned onto the trail, it became a totally different experience. Most of the terrain I had seen was pretty flat but this section was taking me basically from Pat's Lookout down to a beach that is visible below.
It doesn't start off with a steep decline but as you cross a couple of dry creek beds and traverse some open rocky platforms, it feels a bit more adventurous. Spotting the steeper gorges in the distance, I followed the orange markers as I climbed in and out of the valley, before reaching an open area. Here I passed a large group that I guessed had been dropped off at the Southern Rockhole and were walking back to the Visitor Centre. I said hello to the long line of mostly older walkers and was soon at the metal staircase that marks the steeper descent into the gorge. It makes life a little easier and gets the tougher gradient out of the way. The path turns into a rocky boulder field as you descend into the tree cover and a pleasant relief from the heat of the plateau. This area was really cool to walk through with high gorge walls on both sides, a rocky jumble to get through and a thick canopy shielding you from the sun. Following the orange markers makes navigation easy and soon I was at the Southern Rockhole, a seasonal waterfall and swimming spot that was pretty much bone dry when I was there.
There are photos at the Visitor Centre and I can imagine that in the wet season when it is flowing that it's quite the sight, along with being a refreshing spot for a dip. I continued on towards the beach and gave the area a quick scan for crocodiles. First Gorge has the possibility of salt water crocs throughout the year and the soft sands are ideal nesting spots for fresh water crocs so rightfully this is a Crocodile Risk Area. Not spotting any, I took a few photos looking down towards the boat ramps between First and Second Gorge, along with the towering rocks above me. Enjoying a drinks break before heading back towards the main trail, this was a worthy little side trip. Climbing back up the boulder field and stairs worked up a sweat but soon I was back on the Windolf Walk heading towards the Visitor Centre. The lighting was much better now the sun was higher in the sky and I savoured the last few kilometres of Nitmiluk hiking for now. I'm sure I'll be back one day to hike the Jatbula Trail but for now, this was goodbye.
Final Thoughts – The second of the long walks I did in Nitmiluk, I would have to say that this one takes the cake as the better experience.
While Butterfly Gorge was a fascinating place to walk through, there is a bit more variety along the Windolf Walk, combined with the excellent views at Pat's Lookout and Jedda's Rock. Add in the side trip to the Southern Rockhole and there is plenty to enjoy on this particular route.
Of course, there are plenty of options to choose from and given the choose your own adventure style of walking, it's possible to link up Jedda's Rock with Butterfly Gorge and experience it all in one longer walk if you have the time and fitness.
Not a bad way to finish off what had been an enjoyable visit to Katherine and Nitmiluk National Park.
Get out there and experience it!
Be sure to tag any Jedda's Rock photos with #thelifeofpy and if you enjoyed this hike then feel free to share this page on Facebook with your friends.
If you've found this page or the website helpful and you want to show your support then consider making a small donation by visiting our Ko-fi page. You can give as little as a dollar with no sign-up required and everything will be put towards the website, creating new content and promoting the trail community.