Costa Rica Traverse - Part Two
Start - Bella Vista, Domincal, Costa Rica
Finish - Tinamaste Cave, Costa Rica
Date - 13th-14th of November, 2008
In Part Two of my Throw Back Thursday series, my adventures in Costa Rica get serious as I leave the Pacific Ocean behind and venture into the jungle. In Part One we finished our first hiking day watching a breathtaking sunset overlooking the Pacific Ocean at Bella Vista. This was the last time we would be sleeping inside on a soft mattress for a while so after a dinner spent getting to know each other some more and filling our stomach we all retired early.
Bright and early the next day we were woken and started the day with a visit to a local primary school. Kids being kids were very curious of the foreigners and after a quick tour of their only classroom we were each told to tell the class a bit about ourselves. My Spanish was oxidado at best so I let the American teacher translate for me and kept it brief. Departing shortly after we headed up the hill on the paved road that services the many holiday homes in the area. As the sun stretched higher and the road got steeper, the hike became a lot more taxing than everyone was expecting.
We caught a break as we finally reached the top of the hill and entered the national park that would be home for a couple of nights. The downhill sandy tracks were a welcome relief from the baking hot paved roads and as we ventured further into the park the landscape became very familiar. Juan Carlos (JC), our trek leader, was telling us that this was the location for Jurassic Park and it did look very similar with the open plains and green peaks but I think he was referring to the fact that the movie is set in Costa Rica but wasn't actually filmed there. We all believed him none the less.
We left the views of the open plains behind and turned into the jungle for some good old fashioned single track mud hiking. Our destination for the night was a yoga retreat in the middle of the jungle but along the way we stopped at several waterfalls for a quick cool off. The first waterfall was quite a lot bigger than the one we stopped at near Dominicalito Beach and only a few braved swimming against the river and up to the base. With my new waterproof Olympus camera I got JC to snap a few memories in front of the waterfall. While we were all having a good time swimming around the rains came with a vengeance and any thought of drying off after a swim became lost.
Grabbing our day packs we soldiered on in the rain and after a couple of soggy hours trekking we reached the yoga retreat, which was nothing more than a raised bamboo platform. The light was disappearing quickly so we all located our big packs from the support vehicle and set about rolling out sleeping bags and finding dry clothes. The sound of rain on the roof persisted all night as we ate some stew and played cards on the floor in the light of the lanterns.
Waking up a bit sore from the previous days hiking and sleeping on a hard floor with nothing but a tiny roll up mattress and a sleeping bag, we all packed our things up and got ready for another full day of trekking. We were barely 200m from where we slept when the support 4x4 with all our sleeping/cooking gear got stuck trying to negotiate a makeshift wooden bridge. With a big group effort and some repairs to the planks we got the 4x4 going so it could meet us near our overnight stay. A few kilometres down the trail and we could see a tiny waterfall in the mountains ahead (below) that JC told us was our destination for the day.
Between us and the mountains were a few small hills and the sun was back out after yesterdays rain. While we were all sweltering in the heat as we passed through little villages, little did we know that this would be the last time we would see the sun fro this length of time until our very last day of the trek. With the group slowing to a gentle pace we slowly made our way along the local roads until we saw the support 4x4 stopped at the side of the road near a gate. Looking up at the nearby hill, it didn't look that big but we were told that we would be going uphill for a while and our overnight stop was unable to be reached by the 4x4.
After meeting our American hosts who run the place we were staying at we set about hiking up this mountain to our sleeping halt. The trail was very muddy all the way up and you had to tread lightly as too much pressure and you would lose your foot into the mud. The going was slow at start as it had been a long day hiking in the sun and some were feeling it more than others.
After about an hour or so of solid uphill trudging we rounded a corner and quickly forgot about the tough last hour. The Tinamaste Cave and the twin 90ft waterfalls that cascade over it was in full view. It's one of those stop in your tracks moments as you take in the scale of it all after being on a muddy single track path for so long. JC came to the front and pointed to halfway up the waterfalls and said "That is where we are sleeping tonight". No one believed him and it was only after we had crossed the river and saw the path that led up to the cave that we believed him.
We all wondered around the cave in awe of what was there. Right up against the cave wall was a row of mattresses with inviting white sheets, there were hand carved tables and log chairs right under the waterfalls and a kitchen area built into the back of the cave. Put that together with the soundtrack of a torrenting set of waterfalls and the surrounding jungle and it was a powerful experience.
We set our things down and our American hosts suggested we check out some of the other ten waterfalls in the area before the light disappeared. Quickly changing into our swimming gear, those who had the energy assembled at the kitchen and we headed back into the jungle. Our hosts took us higher up the mountain into the mist for another half hour until we reached a small hut. They explained that a man moved up here a while ago and lives in the hut by himself with a only few cattle to support him. While they checked the area to see if he was around we heard the cracking of sticks in the background and all of a sudden he emerged from the trees on horseback. He was an older man that looked like the Costa Rican version of the Marlboro Man with his cowboy hat, leather rain jacket and a well weathered face.
Our hosts said hello, conversed a little in Spanish and we were granted permission to go up to the higher waterfall just up the path. Shortly after we arrived at another stunning waterfall but this time we were at the top instead of the bottom. Looking around first and then back at the waterfall, one of the younger hosts asked "Well, who's first?". We all kind of stood there as the jump down to the water was a good 10-12m and it wasn't a large area to aim for. As a show of good faith he took off his shirt and jumped over the edge and into the pool below.
One by one we all did it to the cheers of everyone watching. It was dark by the time we got back to the cave but by then there was the glorious smell of a warm meal inviting us back. Even after a long day of hiking I was still full of energy and we all stayed up swapping stories and playing cards. Falling asleep to the sounds of the cave was very easy and I enjoyed some well earned rest eager for what was in store for the next day.
Summary - The first two days of hiking were a fantastic introduction to this wonderful country. I'm glad that it took a lot of hiking to get to some of the places we visited because they just wouldn't be as special if anyone could park a car and walk a few hundred metres to experience them. The joy of reaching a destination after hours of hard work to be rewarded with one of the most stunning places in the world is indescribable. It's an old cliché but there really isn't a substitute for the memories you get from travel.
Next week the adventure continues through some of the higher peaks in the coffee growing region of Costa Rica so make sure you stay connected to The Life of Py.
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The view looking towards the beds, kitchen and dining area.
This waterfall was further downstream from the cave and is right behind the big waterfall that can be seen in the distance shots.
Name of the camp at Tinamaste Cave
A shot of me in my prime standing in front of a waterfall. The end.
It was a roof over our heads and a nice place to spend the night.
This is when the rains set in.
Nice swimming spot.
Not really but close.
Hard at work.