Cape Raoul Track
Tasman National Park
Directions - Located just over an hour and a half from Hobart, take the Tasman Highway towards Port Arthur, turning right onto Nubeena Road at Port Arthur. Follow this until you reach a left turn for Stormlea Road, continuing all the way to the end where you will find a car park. The trail head is located to the south of the car park as you head into the forest.
The Hike - With a late 2022 trip to Tasweginland to attempt the South Coast Track, I added a couple of days to the start of the holiday just in case flight delays occurred. The good thing about this if the delays didn't happen, was that I had some time to explore some tracks around Hobart that have been on my to-hike list for a while. Having hiked up to the summit of Mount Wellington on the Pinnacle Circuit the previous day after arriving in Hobart that morning, my plan for the day before setting off on the South Coast Track was to visit the third Cape I didn't get to experience in 2018 on the wine and cheese version of the Three Capes.
Joining me today were fellow SCT companions, Donovan and Bronwyn, and if memory serves me correctly this is the first time we have all hiked together. Donovan had hiked the Cape Raoul Track for The Long Way's Better, way back in 2018 but as a budding videographer and influencer, he was keen to shoot this for his new YouTube channel of the same name (be sure to smash those like and subscribe buttons hard). Unfortunately for Bronwyn and I, this meant repeated shots of walking past a camera and waiting for shots to be setup. While some friends may argue I can be annoying on hikes, I mainly ask them to get out of my shots instead of the other way around but given we knew about the filming requirements from Donovan for the SCT, this would serve as practice for seven days of being ordered around. Driving the hour and a half to reach the start was quite pleasant given the stunning scenery that Tasmania provides and after a quick roadside coffee stop, we were at the new and improved car park. Given this is peak summer holidays in Tassie, it wasn't surprising to see a lot of cars already here as this corner of the state has plenty to see and do for prospective holiday makers.
After sun-creaming ourselves up, we made our way to the start of the track, that is a little underwhelming given the exposed car park in the middle of farmland that borders the national park. I've found this to be the case with many Tassie trails but once you get into it, the true beauty is never too far away. After taking a look at the new information shelter, we headed along a mix of boardwalk and compacted track. It didn't take long to see why this is rated as one of the best day hikes is Tasmania, with the fern lined boardwalk providing early photographic delight for me. During our visit they were in the middle of track upgrades so there were white bags everywhere and a digger parked up just off the trail. It didn't last long and soon we were enjoying the dry sclerophyll forest that was very similar to the Jarrah and Marri Forests from back in WA, albeit with one noticeable difference, it wasn't carrying obvious scars from recent burns. The first part of the track sees you climb continuously along a gentle gradient and this was made easier by the quality of the forest all around us. Add in the summer wildflowers and Bronwyn and I were in iNaturalist heaven.
After crossing a small wooden footbridge, we rounded a corner and I spotted a bird flitting on a stump, so alerted Donovan so he could film it. Up ahead, we arrived at the first and only piece of public art on the trail with a wooden chair overlooking the forest that is meant to resemble an echidna (and spoiler alert but perhaps an omen for later on today). I enjoyed the public art along the Three Capes and this was a fun little reminder of my time on that track. I had a quick sit before having to get up to simulate what I'd just done for the camera. Just after the echidna chair is the junction to pick either Cape Raoul or Shipstern Bluff as your hiking destination. Having not heard of Shipstern Bluff before today, it seemed quite interesting and perhaps something for future trip to Tasmania. Donovan informed us of the excellent surfing at this location but I forgot my board (and surfing skills). Continuing through the excellent forest, we hadn't even arrived at the "good bits" yet and I was already loving this place.
Not far along was the first real "wow" moment as you reach the Cape Raoul Lookout, with stunning views over the cape that had to be the main title photo for this post. With absolutely perfect weather conditions today in terms of temperature, lighting and cloud cover, this was just an incredible place to experience. The wooden barriers protect you from the sheer fall down the cliffs and into the ocean below, something that would be quite easy given how distracting those views are. Both Bronwyn and I were busy snapping away at every angle, me with a combination of my DSLR and new phone, eager to capture the place just as I saw it (not with much luck). Whether it was the wide angle shots looking to Cape Raoul and across to Bruny Island (my post SCT destination), or the close ups of Shipstern Bluff and the little islands at the base of the cliffs, there was so much to enjoy here. Eventually prying myself away from the epic views, Bronwyn had a little more trouble, to the point where Donovan and I wondered if she had fallen off the cliff when she didn't join us, even though we had waited a decent amount of time in the forest ahead.
Relief ensued when she eventually popped into view and we continued on towards the top of the hill. There are no great views from the top, just a gradual change as the track starts to descend until reaching flatter terrain that leads all the way to the turnaround point at Cape Raoul. Having had some luck on Mount Wellington with wildflowers and orchids, I was constantly scanning the edge of the trail as I usually do back home in winter and spring. Out of the corner of my eye I spotted a small white orchid and called Bronwyn over, as she is a fellow amateur botany enthusiast. It turned out to be a Pink Lady Finger (Caladenia carnea) and was a cool find along this forested section. Heading downhill, this was a really nice piece of forest with all kinds of mossy logs, ferns and impressive trees but unfortunately the intense sunshine rendered it somewhat terrible to the camera thanks to the vast contrast between light and dark. I managed to get some better photos on the way back so keep an eye out for those at the end of the post.
One cool stop through the switchbacks here was a gap in the forest where you could see the cape extending out into the ocean. Perfectly placed are a couple of rocks that make for excellent seats if you need a break. Popping out onto a more open section of the trail, the ferns provide a lush undergrowth for the last of the dry sclerophyll forest before it transitions to more coastal varieties like She-Oak and low shrubbery. There are a series of small lookouts along here that provide excellent views looking back at where you've just hiked down from leaving the Cape Raoul Lookout. It was nice to be connected with ocean again and I loved the viewpoint looking across to Shipstern Bluff with dramatic sea cliffs in the foreground. Heading down some stone steps to walk through the last of the forested section, we soon popped out into a tunnel of coastal scrub that mixed with She-Oak groves, would be home until we reached the end at Cape Raoul.
The exposed trail allowed for some lovely views looking back at the hill we had just descended, along with our first sight of Cape Pillar and Tasman Island to the east. This really connected the track to the Three Capes and it's a shame that the original Three Capes plan never eventuated, although I understand why it was shortened. There's nothing stopping anyone from staying an extra day before or after their Three Capes walk and coming out here but the Three Capes moniker is still slightly misleading. Entering one of the She-Oak groves, this was pleasant walking as I really enjoy any opportunity to hike among She-Oaks. With occasional views looking down to your right, I loved seeing the little islands poking up from the deep blue, with one flatter island reminding me of the one at the end of Bald Head thanks to the electric blue colouring of the water that the wave motion creates. I was ahead of the other two as the views opened up and we got closer to the second "wow" moment of the trail.
After passing over a boardwalk with a lone Triggerplant on the edge, I was soon staring at the jagged dolerite cliffs of Cape Raoul. Like many places around Tasmania, the dolerite columns have a distinct look, similar to organ pipes (hence the Organ Pipes Circuit on Mount Wellington). The lookout area is less tame than the Cape Raoul Lookout, with a series of rock just lightly suggesting where you should go, otherwise there is nothing stopping you walking off the side of the cliff. It was pretty awe-inspiring place to stand at, staring across to these imposing columns of sheer rock falling a couple of hundreds metres to the relentless ocean below. It may have been a calm day but there was still plenty of wave action pounding against the base of the cliffs. The late morning light wasn't great for photographing the western side of the cliffs so we moved on and towards the small lake that we could see from the first lookout. Walking across the boardwalk gives you better views looking down the valley carved into the rock and I was wondering how the lake was full of water given the close exit to the ocean right nearby.
Mystery not solved, my attention soon turned to the lovely views looking across the lake to Mount Raoul. Blown away by the quality of the hike so far, I knew the finish would be a cracker so was keen to get there. Climbing up some stone steps after spotting some Fringe Myrtle, Silver Banksia and Dagger Hakea, the final part of the route is along exposed coastal scrub that hides the end quite well. There are two lookouts at the finish with the Cape Lookout and Seal Lookout providing different viewpoints of Cape Raoul. We elected to visit the Cape Lookout first and it wasn't long until we joined a couple of other groups enjoying the stunning views. Much like The Blade near Cape Pillar, you get some pretty cool views looking down the dolerite spires that make up the end of the cape. While not as extreme, this is a close substitute for that experience. Speaking of Cape Pillar, it's clearly visible to the west, along with Mount Fortescue that you climb on the final day of that hike.
We decided to stop for a lunch break here and between shotting every possible angle of this narrow headland, I snacked on a banana, wishing it was something a bit more substantial. I don't think we could have experienced better weather, with light winds, a flat ocean, warm but not hot temperatures and light cloud providing a nice addition to the photos. After finishing up eating, we watched the sea birds circling around the cliffs before snapping our last photos and leaving this idyllic spot. Knowing that we were going to visit the Seal Lookout on the other side of the cliffs made this easier and it wasn't long until we reached the second lookout for even more impressive views. A local that was hanging out at the coffee van we stopped at on the way here told us of the seal colony that he frequently sees when he takes his boat out to these cliffs, hence the Seal Lookout name. The first thing we spotted upon arriving were some crazy individuals that were enjoying a spot of rock climbing at the tip of the series of spires, visible if you look closely at the third photo in the below gallery.
I really enjoyed the Seal Lookout as the southerly direction you face is better for photos and the dolerite columns here are more impressive. While it would have been handy to have a set of binoculars, I couldn't see any seals with the naked eye. As I was editing the photos I noticed a few shapes at the base of the cliffs that digitally zooming in further than my 140mm lens could see, it turns out there were seals there. Departing the lookout, the best wildlife experience was yet to come, and those that know me will realise what a moment this was. Although I had seen two echidnas on previous Tassie trips before and finally saw one in WA on the Munda Biddi in 2021, my luck with these spiked monotremes isn't the best. So when Bronwyn and Donovan rounded a corner and I spotted a golden ball just in front of them, I was letting out all of the internal screams of delight. This little floof ball wasn't at all fussed that we were there, just happy to be digging furiously on the side of the track for some tasty snacks. Of the 700 odd photos I took on this hike, 75 of them were of echidnas as we stayed for a while just observing and taking as many photos and videos as we could. Giddy with the interaction we just had, this had us in good spirits for the journey back to the start.
Some people don't like return hikes as "you see the same things" but I disagree and you'd have to be a pretty miserable soul to say no to seeing the stunning scenery along the Cape Raoul Track for a second time. The highlights were no less impressive on the return journey and in some places the lighting was even better now the sun had shifted a bit further west in the sky. As we passed a walking tour from the Tasmanian Walking Company doing their new adventurous Three Capes tour that includes Cape Raoul, the guide stopped to let us know of an echidna a bit further on. Thinking it would have walked off by now, it was a delight to discover a second echidna on one hike. This one quickly moved on but not before I got a cute shot of it wiggling its nose in the air. With cloudier skies as we reached the climb up the hill, the forest was looking much better as we headed towards the Cape Raoul Lookout. The views were once again breathtaking and this capped off what had been an excellent experience. We finished off the day by exploring the touristy bits of the Tasman Peninsula including the Tessalted Pavement, the hilarious hamlet of Doo, where every house has a Do related name, plus a few other short stops.
Final Thoughts – The big drawcard of this hike for me was not a simple box ticking exercise of completing the Three Capes but a genuine interest in walking a great track.
The Cape Raoul Track is that in spades and is just as stunning and wild as Cape Pillar and Cape Hauy. This was the first hike I added onto my itinerary when planning the South Coast Track trip and it lived up to my every expectation.
The forest at the start was a nice surprise, the views blew me away and the variety of things to see along the way never left me wanting more. Add in the epic nature of the dolerite cliffs and this has got to be one of the best day hikes in Tasmania, a list I might be putting together soon just for fun.
Keep an eye out for the short film on this hike that I starred in, coming to The Long Way's Better YT Channel sometime in late 2023.
If you're undecided on whether or not to hike this one before or after a Three Capes trip, then hopefully this post has swayed you into the camp of the "yes, I think I will".
Get out there and experience it!
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