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Bald Head Walk Trail

Bald Head Walk Trail

Torndirrup National Park

Directions - From the centre of Albany take Frenchman Bay Road into Torndirrup National Park until you reach Salmon Hole Road. Take a right here and then take a left onto Murray Road. The Bald Head Walk Trail starts at the top of a gravel road that comes off Murray Road (it is well signposted), where you'll find a small car park.

2024 Update - The Bald Head Walk Trail will be re-opened for the school holidays from Saturday the 21st of September to the 6th of October, and will close again after that to continue works on the car park upgrade. See this page for more details.

 

The Hike - The Bald Head Walk Trail has had a meteoric rise to popularity from the first time I hiked it way back in 2015, and for good reason. As one of the best day hikes in Western Australia, it's gone from being a trail that not many knew about, to a must-do activity if you're visiting Albany. I've loved every visit here, and in 2022 DBCA decided that with the growing popularity, the trail needed a long overdue fix to deal with the increased numbers.

The trail was shut down for several months while works were going on to install boardwalk and steps in critical areas, along with dealing with the erosion issues that were only going to get worse. One section that was particularly bad, as you make your final descent to the end, required hikers to pull themselves up a few metre high sections of eroded channel, that although didn't seem to be any worse between my 2015 and 2020 visit, was going to need measures put in given how many people hike this each year. With the trail re-opening in 2023, I had a trip planned for the spring to refresh myself on the great trails along the South Coast for my second book (which can be purchased here). Staying in Albany for six days, I would be exploring all the trails in the area, with Bald Head saved for the sunniest of those days. Deciding to head out in the morning, I had never hiked Bald Head before midday in the past, and thought I would see what the lighting would be like at that time of day.

 

Initially things were fantastic, as I hiked up towards Isthmus Hill, the views looking down towards Salmon Holes were stunning. Rounding Isthmus Hill and getting my first views of the most iconic section of the track, I realised I may have made an error. The limestone ridge was backlit by the morning sun, and the photos were looking washed out, along with the unpleasantness of staring into the sun for most of the hike. Normally I would just continue to be my pig-headed self and hike on, but I'm trying to be better in this regard, so made the decision to turn back, and return after I had finished the other trails on my list today. After a couple of stunning hikes at Peak Head and Uredale Point, I returned around 2pm to tackle Bald Head again. With the sun now over my left shoulder for most of the hike, this was much better, and confirmation that there was a reason my previous two visits were also in the afternoon. Spotting plenty of wildflower and orchids leading up to Isthmus Hill, this would just be the start in terms of the lovely flora along the track.

Reaching the granite slopes of Isthmus Hill again, the views looking back to Albany and the old Whaling Station below are lovely, and really highlight the beautiful topography of the area. Walking across the granite to reach the next section of trail, the skies were a pleasant blue, with wisps of white clouds making for some excellent photos, a real contrast to the moody day I had when I last hiked this in 2020. Noticing the new boardwalk section as you round the slopes of Isthmus Hill, this was one of the areas that needed it, thanks to a lot of broken boardwalk and eroded channels. Reaching what I like to call the "wow moment" of Bald Head, you round a corner and are presented with these majestic views looking out over Flinders Peninsula, with the bulk of the limestone ridge ahead, and the granite dome of Bald Head visible in the distance. It's a real stop you in your tracks moment, and it certainly hasn't lost any of the lustre from previous visits. 

 

Meandering along the boardwalk, I was walking slowly along here, switching my gaze between the different wildflowers dotting the edge of the trail, and the stunning scenery all around. This section is where you'll find a great host of Banksias, with the birds flitting between the coastal heath. It takes a bit of patience to get photos of them, and a New Holland Honeyeater stayed still long enough for me to get a shot of it. As you continue along the boardwalk, the views start to open up, firstly to your right, where you can marvel at the granite slopes of Isthmus Hill as they meet the ocean below, and then off to your left as one of the sheltered bays within King George Sound looks like it might below on the Italian or French Riviera. Soaking in this special place as long as I could, there was no rush this afternoon, and I could revel in hiking one of my favourite trails. With excellent weather, the views looking down the peninsula were some of the best I've seen them, with the gentle waves crashing against the exposed southern flank providing a nice scene.

Descending down the hill, you reach the junction where you can walk down to the beach, or continue along the trail. I've always vowed here to visit the beach on the return journey, but for whatever reason it never happens. Now at the bottom of the hill, you get an appreciation for the bulk of the limestone ridge ahead, and this will be one of the toughest climbs of the trail. This is also the narrowest point of the peninsula, and provides some excellent views looking to your left over King George Sound, and to the right as the granite slopes grow larger and larger. Reaching the start of the climb, this was another point along the trail where there were significant erosion issues, and they've installed a series of stairs over the top of erosion control matting. Previously there were knee deep channels that formed the trail but over the years people had widened the pad by walking above them, a situation that was only going to get worse. The new steps make the hike a little easier but the gradients haven't changed, so it still takes your breath away.

Speaking of taking your breath away, they've also installed a couple of lookouts along here, with little side trips off to the south leading to small platforms. This provides a good opportunity for a break, as you get amazing views looking back towards Isthmus Hill, and further along the peninsula to the finishing point at Bald Head. Continuing the climb, you reach the first of many little summits, and can see the rest of the hike ahead. Entering a section of Peppermints, this section feels like you're entering the next level of the hike, and leaving the world behind. The bird life through here is frenetic, with little shapes moving fast between the coastal scrub, and the various chirps and calls providing a nice soundtrack to the hike. The closed in feeling doesn't last too long, as you twist and turn through the Peppermints, eventually popping out on the northern edge of the peninsula, where the views looking over King George Sound will be your friend for the next couple of kilometres.

Luckily at this point I was keeping an eye on the edge of the trail for wildflowers and orchids, because right up ahead was a long, brown danger noodle sunning itself in the middle of the trail. This is not unusual for the South Coast, and something you have to be aware of, rather than scared of. It must have felt me coming, as soon after my arrival it slithered off into the undergrowth, but not before I got a few snaps for the records (I think it was a Dugite). Moving on quickly, you're now high above the waters below, and it feels like you've finished with the climbing. That is not the case, as you reach the top of another small limestone hill, and see the next one ahead. Looking back, you can see how far you've come, and also how far you still have to go to reach Bald Head in the distance. Heading downhill again, you pass through more Peppermint thickets before reaching the base of another climb. There are new steps leading up to this one and at the top you'll find a nice little spot to have a rest and soak in the views.

 

Still hugging the northern edge of the ridge line, you start to get better views looking across King George Sound and off towards Gull Rock National Park, Breaksea and Michaelmas Islands, and further to the peak of Mount Gardner. Immediately to your left and sloping down into King George Sound is Limestone Head, a feature you'll soon say goodbye to, as the trail makes a turn to the right, just after you enter another tunnel of Peppermints. The wildflowers continued to be excellent along here, with the theme being pink, thanks to Pink Fairies, Pale-beaked Triggerplant, and Coastal Banjine. Having scaled a lot of limestone hills over the past three and a bit kilometres, you come across a large slab of granite leading up to the highest point along the ridge. I adore this section of granite, as you get some stunning views looking across to the islands in the middle of King George Sound, along with the thickets of smaller Eucalyptus trees visible below the granite.

There is a large rock cairn here to help you navigate across the granite, and here I passed another hiker going in the opposite direction. Given how many cars were in the car park, and how many I'd already seen heading back, I was hoping that I would have the last half of the trail to myself. Not long after leaving the granite, I spotted what I thought was a colony of White Fairy Orchids but it turned out they were just albino Pink Fairies (the White Fairy Orchid has a brown colouring on the back of the petals). It was too bright to take decent photos, so I made a note to take some on the return trip, which you can see in the last gallery. Rising up the last hill for a while, this is the highest point on the trail at 224m ASL. Given you're surrounded by vegetation, you don't get to appreciate the views until you walk a bit further along, and reach a section of sand and limestone. I have fond memories of this place from my first visit, and it's a much different landscape to what you'll find elsewhere on the trail. 

 

Noting the trail improvements along here, I passed the final hikers I'd see on the journey out to Bald Head, and it seems I had interrupted a small fight, where the boyfriend had overexerted himself, and the partner was not entirely happy at this. Leaving them to hash it out, I descended the new stairs and was soon standing on what I think is a giant sandstone slab. This is yet another other-worldly spot along the trail, and the first time I'd been here when it wasn't blowing a gale. With lovely sunshine and a relatively slight breeze for Albany, I began one of my favourite sections of the trail. Walking along the bare rock, you follow the cairns as they lead you to the left initially, reaching a series of rounded boulders that you get to walk through. They make for fantastic features to photograph, and the contrast between golden rock, blue skies and the deeper blues of the water below all combine for some of my favourite images of the trail. Cutting between the sandstone, you get some of the best views looking across the entrance of King George Sound. 

Heading back towards the main slab, the cairns place you on top of the rock, and looking down what I've described in the past as the prow of a mighty ship, or the shape of the Venator Class Republic Attack Cruiser from the Star Wars prequel trilogy. This section fills me with so much joy, as the pale colours of the rock are super photogenic, leading your gaze right out over the Southern Ocean in the distance. Eventually though, you do have to head right and descend along the exposed rock face, spotting the top of Bald Head in the distance. There is still a bit of hiking to go, despite the appearance that it's not very far, as you reach a section of heath that had me a bit confused. There are several goat paths leading off to the left, and I followed a few of them, all reaching a dead end. Tracing my steps back to the open rock, I eventually spotted a series of rocks in the shape of an arrow pointing me right, although the top of the arrow had been knocked away. Glad I was not going mad, and was on the right trail again, I continued along to one of the more infamous sections I was talking about earlier. 

 

Standing at the top of the hill, you can see the bulk of Bald Head in front of you, with a steep-ish hill leading down to it. This used to involve quite an eroded section of the trail, with metre high drops in places. A staircase has been installed, along with erosion control matting, and you can see how deep it got in places. The stairs certainly make this section a lot easier, and it's much better for the environment given the popularity of the trail. Reaching the bottom of the stairs, you enter a narrow tunnel where the Banksias have grown into this gnarly, almost spooky section, but it doesn't last long. Popping out onto an exposed section of rock, you now look up at Bald Head, instead of down at it. This final section leading to the finishing cairn is really enjoyable, with amazing views looking firstly to the southern cliffs, and then as you cross over the ridge, the northern cliffs of Bald Head. Some parts almost feel like a manicured Japanese garden, with the plants not growing very large, and forced to survive in what is a harsh environment for most of the year.

Walking up the exposed northern flank of Bald Head, you eventually reach the finishing cairn that you won't miss. A lovely spot to drop your pack and have a rest, the 270 degree views over the water make you feel like you're at the ends of the earth, which you kind of are. Ahead of you, some 3,500km away, is Antarctica, and it's a daunting thought to ponder the amount of space and deep ocean between here and there. Finding the right side of the cairn to plop myself down, away from the wind, I had a little snack while I searched for migrating whales in the waters below. Albany is one of the best places to watch the whale migration between July and November each year, with Bald Head being famous for sighting them right off the edge of the peninsula. I've never had much luck here, and this trip was no different. Once I was finished enjoying a snack and a drink, I got up and had a wander around the area, looking for different wildflowers, and also photographing the waves splashing over the small island on the southern side of the granite dome.

Peak Head is visible to the west, and it was a nice reminder of my morning hike there. Having taken two hours to get out here, and needing to return to the start, organise dinner, and prepare for the following day of hiking, I thought it best to gather my pack and start walking back. It was a nice feeling to have the trail to myself, and I'd be surprised if I bumped into anyone on the way back, at least until I reached the first third of the trail. This turned out to be the case, and I could enjoy one of my favourite trails in the gorgeous lighting of a late afternoon in spring. Now looking into the sun for the most part, I love how the various hills and peaks of the peninsula look when backlit by the setting sun. I didn't see anyone until I reached the turn-off for the beach, and with the fading light, I decided against a short trip, maybe next time I thought to myself. There were a few surprises left for me as I climbed up Isthmus Hill and back to the start, with a Common Scaly-Foot on the boardwalk, and a couple of orchids I hadn't seen just off the trail. What an amazing hike, and what a way to finish a fantastic day of hiking around Albany.

Final Thoughts – Bald Head is a great success story, showcasing the rise in popularity of hiking within Western Australia. With that popularity though, the need for the trail to be able to handle the increased foot traffic was something that need to be addressed.

DBCA have done a great job at targeting the areas that needed improvement, without taking the essence of the trail away. You still get the amazing views, the challenging climbs, and the spectacular flora, and that's why it remains one of the best day hikes in the state.

As I said in the last post I did for this trail, I was worried that having hiked a lot of other trails around WA and Australia, that the rose-tinted glasses might cause me to think this is much better than it actually is.

 

I can safely say that isn't the case, and the Bald head Walk Trail remains one of the most scenic and engaging hikes you can do in Western Australia. This is the third time writing this trail up for the website, and I'm sure it won't be the last.

 

Get out there and experience it!

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